Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a r32 4door gtst (rb20det) and some times you give it a boot full then go to pull up and the rpm drops off some times to the point were it stalls or you could be drive along and go to change gears and it's like the car stalls out and also it dose it why just putting around anyone got any iders that could help me out even if you could SMS me as I don't really get on here much (0401 787 770)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349300-revs-droping/
Share on other sites

Have you got an BOV venting to atmosphere? This could be causing the issue if the car is not tuned/tuned correctly.

Also new spark plugs and coilpacks are a good idea, however they are not going to solve your problem of revs dropping and stalling as these are at low load points where you dont require a strong spark. I dont think that will be the issue but its something worth updating anyway.

Clean the AFM and AAC valves and post up if you have an Atmo BOV and if so which one.

Also if you DONT have an atmo bov, and the car has a factory ECU (with no chip, piggyback etc) then perhaps try resetting the ECU. I had my skyline go funny back when it was on stock ECU after I put an atmo BOV on it then took it back off. It did the same thing kept stalling even with the stock BOV back on, and I tried everything and the only thing that fixed it was resetting the ECU

If you want to do that, disconnect the battery and hold your foot on the brakes for about 10 seconds or so then plug the battery back in. But do this only if your sure its the factory ECU with no mods/chips/tunes/piggybacks etc

Edited by 89CAL
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349300-revs-droping/#findComment-5615062
Share on other sites

It is runing the factory ecu but it's been chiped far as I no coz it dose not have speed cut and revs out more and it has a hks ssqv type1 bov.... I will list the mods done to the car witch most of them was already done to the car when I got it

(rb20det)

hks ssqv

hks front mount

turbosmart boost T

hks pod filter

2.5" twin champer dump pipe

3" exhuast

r33 turbo that has been high flowed and has a garrat gt35

ballbearing

Other then that it's standed

it made 232hp on 10psi soon to be going on the dyno after I do me new plugs and coilpacks and biger fuel pump

Other then that it's sta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349300-revs-droping/#findComment-5615486
Share on other sites

mine didnt have speed cut and seemed to rev more, but trust me it was definently a stock ECU. Yours is running a high flow but making 173rwkw, which suggests its probably still a standard ECU but I'm not going to say it definently is or definently isnt.

If you can, start the car and when its hunting or trying to stall try placing something over the BOV so no air can escape from it. If this makes your revs settle down then I'd say the BOV will be the issue. HKS make plumback kits for the SSQV's (not sure for which generation they apply to but)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349300-revs-droping/#findComment-5615707
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi im am having the same problem when i accelerate to red line then take my foot off the accelerator the car drops and the whole engine shakes.

I have stock ecu,turbo,fmic,turbo exhaust.

i took my car to be diagnosed today but couldn't find the problem. The fuel pump,air flow meter,cas, has been checked and still having same problem..........

I'm sick of wasting time and money can anyone help.

Edited by fly333
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349300-revs-droping/#findComment-5675377
Share on other sites

Revs dropping to the point of stalling...I had the same issue with my r32 gtst. Did a diagnostic with my connect cable n ecutalk software. Turned out to be a code 12 (maf sensor) fault. Cleaned out the afm (sensor & the plug, undid 4 screws n pulled the plug out, sprayed inside with carby/tb cleaner) and it fixed my issue. The contact points inside the plug were bogged up...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349300-revs-droping/#findComment-5675964
Share on other sites

can someone explain why a rb with no bov will stall more?

Has been covered a million times, air flow is pushed back through the IC pipework (no bov to release pressure), hits the AFM on it's way out of the pod... AFM read's twice the amount of air, chucks in more fuel, stallage.

Doesn't happen to all rb's. there are many people on this forum that don't run bov's and don't have stalling issues.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349300-revs-droping/#findComment-5685779
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
×
×
  • Create New...