Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

As above, does the PFC require a retune after an upgraded intercooler is installed ?

Currently putting down 315kw atw in the GTR with stock cooler ATM..or is it worth spending the extra couple hundred $$ for some dyno time ?

Ps, this may have already been answerd in previous threads but couldn't find anything on it.

Cheers

i dont reckon it would be needed

the std GTR core is pretty good kit and an aftermarket one, if anything will only add a little bit better resistant to heat soak if anything

imho retune not needed and your wasting your money on retune

are you trying to gain power by changing the core?

surely better things to spend your $ on to make the car go faster than a different intercooler core

i dont reckon it would be needed

the std GTR core is pretty good kit and an aftermarket one, if anything will only add a little bit better resistant to heat soak if anything

imho retune not needed and your wasting your money on retune

are you trying to gain power by changing the core?

surely better things to spend your $ on to make the car go faster than a different intercooler core

Thanks for the replies guys...

Yeah thats what ive heard..but i guess its pretty much the last thing on the car that hasnt been upgraded ? running 2530's, bigger injectors, fuel pump, clutch etc..motor in the car is also only 20,000 km old (been upgraded with fresh R33 GTR parts and some other goodies)

And plus it worries me on those 40c days having the 20yr old standard cooler there ? and I've heard the standed core runs out of its 'efficiency' range past 300kw ?

cheers

im sure people have gone past 300rwkw with the std core

to confirm and check you need to check the airtemp past the intercooler outlet

i wouldnt expect the core to become magically inefficient at 320rwkw instead of 300rwkw

spend the money on tyres, suspension, reducing weight, better tune, cam gears etc

You could possibly make more power with a retune, but without it you should be fine. You've just increased your heatsoak capacity so on a hot day it should be less likely to ping due to lower intake temps.

I wouldn't bother unless you want to up the boost now that you've installed it.

You could possibly make more power with a retune, but without it you should be fine. You've just increased your heatsoak capacity so on a hot day it should be less likely to ping due to lower intake temps.

I wouldn't bother unless you want to up the boost now that you've installed it.

Yeah not so fussed about upping the boost anymore right now, not to sure how the longevity will be on the standard motor if I started doing that lol..

thanks mate

how often do you get 40 degree days in the blue mountains, maybe a intercooler spray kit might help if those days are few.

Have heard the standard gtr cooler is good till about 400rwkw from memory.

how often do you get 40 degree days in the blue mountains, maybe a intercooler spray kit might help if those days are few.

Have heard the standard gtr cooler is good till about 400rwkw from memory.

haha last week it was about 40...and its not like i just limit my driving to the blue mountains ;-) Yeah there seems to be these different opinions of what sort of power levels the stock intercoolers

are good for.

I guess with all the rain lately i hardly need a intercooler spray kit..get plenty of spray from the car driving in front of me :-)

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...