Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just paid 680 for the back and 770 for the front shocks on my r33. First are there standard shocks any good?. Second did I get ripped off? Third what's a good set for next time without going into coilovers? I work away so havn't driven it yet so can't tell u what I think they are like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349937-pedders-shocks-are-they-any-good/
Share on other sites

I just paid 680 for the back and 770 for the front shocks on my r33. First are there standard shocks any good?. Second did I get ripped off? Third what's a good set for next time without going into coilovers? I work away so havn't driven it yet so can't tell u what I think they are like.

Holy crap you can buy Konis for less than that.. or a set of adjustable coilovers start around 1200..IM guessing you paid that fitted though..

What sort did you get sportsrider..

Pedders make good suspansion, Id say there are better for that money but I guess thats the price you pay when you get them fittted..

Edited by Arthur T3

Coilovers are shit. Ive got teins, I really want to get rid of them. Gotta love Sydney roads.

1232903709samuel20l20ja.gif

You said what now?!?!

10kg/8kg superstreets are always going to be hard.

OP, are they just replacements? Pedders do a re-brand BC body with their own spring, they are ok. If not just get some BC's later on, with softer springs if you want 6/5's or something.

It's not lowered but now the new shocks in the mrs says that when she goes full lock on the steering there is a loud clunk turning both ways. Sometimes I really hate working away but the fact she has no clue. Any ideas what the noise could be? Running 245/45 on the front and never had a problem with rubbing or anything like it. Could the steering be affected by shocks or anything done wrong putting new ones in or am I just a dumb as for letting the mrs sort it out?

1232903709samuel20l20ja.gif

You said what now?!?!

10kg/8kg superstreets are always going to be hard.

OP, are they just replacements? Pedders do a re-brand BC body with their own spring, they are ok. If not just get some BC's later on, with softer springs if you want 6/5's or something.

They are really nice on flat bendy roads but living in Parramatta, the roads here are disgusting and they will make my passenger nauseous.

If someone can tell me how to identify my teins ill tell you which one they are. From the tops, theyre standard(dont have the top camber/dampening adjustment). The suspension tower thing is silver, has a black spring and two adjustable turny things. I will trade these for any decent, road suspension for an r33 gtst.

Edited by SargeRX8

from my experience (which was a few yrs ago now) i would never buy another set of pedders crapriders....too pricey. didnt last and felt crap. Told them they feel shite and they told me there was nothing they can do....lame.

2 places i'll never go again. pedders, and ultratune. over qualifyed Maccas employees

i should mention mine werent on a skyrine

Edited by boiracer

They are really nice on flat bendy roads but living in Parramatta, the roads here are disgusting and they will make my passenger nauseous.

If someone can tell me how to identify my teins ill tell you which one they are. From the tops, theyre standard(dont have the top camber/dampening adjustment). The suspension tower thing is silver, has a black spring and two adjustable turny things. I will trade these for any decent, road suspension for an r33 gtst.

They should have a sticker on them.

tein+ss+eg.JPG

First are there standard shocks any good?.

Depends entirely on what you're using the car for, but ordinarily not really...

Second did I get ripped off?

Ah yep. You couldn't have KYB for half of that, or Bilstein/Koni for pretty close to what you paid (if not less)...

Third what's a good set for next time without going into coilovers?

Aforementioned Koni/Bilstein...

Yeah thought so! Any way it's back in there workshop now anyway.. Havn't driven it myself yet so will let u know what I think when I do. They just looked at it again and they said my tie rod ends gone. Buy the way I'm not bagging Pedders nice guys at the one I went to and helpful. Just thought there price a bit much just for shocks. They said they would run me through how to do the rods myself. Anyone know what are a good brand or will any do.

Edited by aardi

first of all.

tiens are good, not ideal for australian roads though.

second...

you really mustn't be of the intelligent type to say coilovers are shit... no you say? then you would know that tiens run a very hard spring rate then? different coilovers come with different spring rates...

and im referring to the one piece coilover setup, because stock or pedders etc shocks and springs are also known as coilovers because the COIL is OVER the shock

Edited by Clutch

Yeah right mate I never said coil overs where shit that was another guy I just wanted to know that for 1300 bucks installed I was getting my moneys worth of shocks. Anyone know much about the tie end rods I need?

  • 3 weeks later...

Andrew unfortunately you got sucked in to buying cheap quality shocks which I will mention most of the inner hardware comes from Taiwan, Pedders Australian...Not.

I've been in the suspension game for a few years now and where I work we set up many cars for road/track/rally/drift/drag/tarmac rally's you name it. We sell and recommend the following;

1.KYB's, they're good quality replacement shocks made in Japan for Japanese vehicles :) around $1000 for a set.

2. Koni, they're better quality performance sport shock designed for standard or lowering springs with external rebound adjustments, made in Germany, set you back $1200 for a set.(not incl labour & W/A)

3.Bilstein, Once again great quality shock only difference from the Koni's are that they are not externally adjustable & the valving is set better for comfort on harsh roads especially when lowering, again they are made in Germany & would set you back $1800 for a full set.

That being said I would personally go with the Koni's as they are not too expensive and if you were to lower your car they would certainly work well being firm but not overly harsh & of course they are rebuildable once you've clocked 200,000klms with them in the car!

Don't worry mate just remember for next time you need shocks, DONT GO TO PEDDERS!!

Oh and coil/overs are not necessary for a road car, if your tracking it totally different story, you would be far better off with Koni or Bilstein shocks and lowering springs then any cheap coil/over kit trust me.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...