Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mate if you bring them to show and shine and it works on your car i will buy 2 sets on the spot...

ylw mate i did some work in a shop makin carbon, if you show us all how to make a home made vacumm and oven for true carbon fibre construction then i will bow down to the master...its the most frustrating and money hungry sh.it in the world the old carbon fibre...

also make sure there is a detailed post for all of us to make our dry sumps mate... your a legg

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hehe yes 25GTT it does make a similar sound doesn't it.

I have had several supercharged cars with toothed blower belt drive and know that it is not a simple thing. Trying to convince yourself that it is more efficient and "makes power" is bullshit.

If you do some research you will find conventional vee groove pulleys are around 92% to 95% efficient depending on power transmitted, belt tension, and belt speed. If your alternator and waterpump takes say three horsepower to drive, the belt loss is going to be around 5% or 0.15 Hp.

If you discover a 100 % efficient drive that extra 0.15 Hp is really going to make your car haul some ass at the saturday night drags, eh !

Toothed belts

Advantages

* Efficiency is high

* Lower belt tension is required (less bearing load)

* Efficiency does not depreciate significantly over life

* No slip (important if the items need to be synchronised)

Disadvantages

* Cost

* Noise

* Transmission of shock loading

Vee Belts can have comparable efficiency. The problem is that this efficiency can be substantially decreased with improper installation and maintenance is not correct.

Most of these are industrial considerations.

mate if you bring them to show and shine and it works on your car i will buy 2 sets on the spot...

ylw mate i did some work in a shop makin carbon,  if you show us all how to make a home made vacumm and oven for true carbon fibre construction then i will bow down to the master...its the most frustrating and money hungry sh.it in the world the old carbon fibre...

also make sure there is a detailed post for all of us to make our dry sumps mate... your a legg

hehehe here is my vacumm formed tail lamp surrounds...unfortunately when they were made i didnt take pics of the process.....ofcourse they are home made outta the shed :rolleyes:...i will be making the breather pipes on the valve cover next,but it will be a male mould so it wont have as much educational value :P....look out for the valve and sparkplug cover post tho...it will be vac formed ....start bowing then :P

power has very little to do with belt slippage... its the rpm that causes it mainly, sure minor issue is inertia from quick engine acceleration but its changes in revs and high revs that cause belt tension issues and slippage... so hondas would benefit if they are good hondas like type r's and nsx's...still no word on if this is actually happenin or not????

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...