Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys. Im planning on selling my current car which is a NA BA XR6. Because I'm stubborn I prefer to buy a car and modify it myself and I love having car projects.

I am currently thinking about buying an NA R33 GTS and Turbocharging it myself. What is the average power levels made from this kind of modification (I know there is a topic however it didn't give me a clear indication for R33 power levels) and can it be made to be a stealthy modification for example a stock R33 GTST intercooler and heatshielding over the turbo and manifold?

And I'm currently undecided on whether to buy a GTS or a GTS4.

Any opinions?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350470-na-to-turbo-project/
Share on other sites

I don't get it, why on earth would you not just buy a GTST?

There is A LOT of differences between a GTS and GTST other than just one having a turbo on it.

You need to do a lot more reading, all the information is there.

So buy a stock GTST and modify it...

Instead of buying a GTS and modifying it into a lesser model GTST.

It is like you turbocharging your BA because you would not be happy driving a XR6T knowing you didn't put the turbo on it yourself.

Seriously, doesn't make sense.

Actually Turbocharging my Falcon has been one of my considerations. Me and a mate turbocharged his Falcon Ute a couple of months back and got impressive results but I have always preferred Skylines more than a Falcon. Im also on my Ps now so that's also one of the reasons I no longer have a GTST and want to buy a Non-turbo Skyline. Long story

theres things your missing mate,

if you buy an n/a skyline, it will have the n/a brakes and it will be 4 stud. if you want to make it easy to find a nice set of wheels you need to convert to 5 stud and if turboing i suggest better brakes aswell.

if you get a gts4 and you ever want to drop a motor in the only one that will work will be out of a stagea or GTR, unless your prepared to loose 4wd or mix and match blocks and sumps.

interms of power. if you get all the factory gtst stuff and put it in the gts, this will include:

injectors, afm, ecu, dump pipe, intake piping and bov, factory intercooler, turbo, dump pipe, manifold, oil lines and water lines, gaskets, plus things I may have forgotten.

funny enough, add this all together and you get what a gtst does... about 150rwkw...

if, like in a gtst, you get a exhaust, a bleed valve for abit more boost, and a fmic you will get similar power ~180-200rwkw... so its really the same, the only reason blokes on here turbocharge their cars is because they already have the n/a skyline. you don't, stick the n/a xr6 until your off your p's, then get a gtst if you want and mod that.

Im telling you it will save you thousands in the long run.

  • Like 1

if you buy an n/a skyline, it will have the n/a brakes and it will be 4 stud. if you want to make it easy to find a nice set of wheels you need to convert to 5 stud and if turboing i suggest better brakes aswell.

That's not neccesarily true, my NA 33 has 5 stud wheels and the decent Sumitomo brakes front and rear.

That's not neccesarily true, my NA 33 has 5 stud wheels and the decent Sumitomo brakes front and rear.

Because it was changed because someone wanted a brake upgrade and 5 stud conversion before you got it.

Because it was changed because someone wanted a brake upgrade and 5 stud conversion before you got it.

No it's completely stock. Auto, No ABS, No Hicas, S2 with 5 stud & decent brakes.

Why would someone bother to upgrade the brakes and hubs on what is essentially a JDM salesreps car without doing anything else?

Edited by miguelegant

Getting a bit of topic.

The main point is people only turbocharge a GTS when they have already owned it and don't want to sell it for personal reasons or whatever. That I can understand.

If you don't own one though, to go out and buy a GTS with the plan to turbocharge it, when for the exact same money you can already buy a GTST is just silly.

It is like going out and buying a VE V6 Commodore with the intention of putting a LS2 into it instead of some one offering you a VE SS for the same money. Really, why would you?

Than on top of all that, you legally can't even drive the turbocharged car, so why go down that path? No insurance, constantly looking over your shoulder for every single cop so you don't get done etc. It just really isn't worth it.

theres things your missing mate,

if you buy an n/a skyline, it will have the n/a brakes and it will be 4 stud. if you want to make it easy to find a nice set of wheels you need to convert to 5 stud and if turboing i suggest better brakes aswell.

if you get a gts4 and you ever want to drop a motor in the only one that will work will be out of a stagea or GTR, unless your prepared to loose 4wd or mix and match blocks and sumps.

interms of power. if you get all the factory gtst stuff and put it in the gts, this will include:

injectors, afm, ecu, dump pipe, intake piping and bov, factory intercooler, turbo, dump pipe, manifold, oil lines and water lines, gaskets, plus things I may have forgotten.

funny enough, add this all together and you get what a gtst does... about 150rwkw...

if, like in a gtst, you get a exhaust, a bleed valve for abit more boost, and a fmic you will get similar power ~180-200rwkw... so its really the same, the only reason blokes on here turbocharge their cars is because they already have the n/a skyline. you don't, stick the n/a xr6 until your off your p's, then get a gtst if you want and mod that.

Im telling you it will save you thousands in the long run.

don't forget that the GTS-t has a stronger gearbox, factory LSD, and the key factor, will cost less to buy.

put simply, for the money it costs to buy a natro and turbo it you could buy a turbo one, build it up and be making a hell of a lot more power.

Dude i just picked up a 95 gtst with 130k for 4k, Sure its paint isnt great but otherwise its mechanically great. I think you would be stupid not to get a gtst with deals like that going around. I have already done heaps of fiddling and modding which gives you that satisfaction you were talking about, which i completely understand. The gtst is already a really great base man, and if you are decent with spanners you can do heaps of bolt on mods and get the f**kers cracking 300rwkw+ cheap as hell. Seriously reconsider..

yes, its definetly possible to make it stealthy. eg; you can have a black fmic, ces racing exhaust which looks almost exactly like the standard one, an air diversion plate to cover up the intercooler from the top. stock airbox and heatshield to cover up the pipings and turbo (no pods as it makes too much noise). but really, all those stealthy mods does not guarantee you not getting done by cops, ofcouse there are always cops out there that doesnt know what they are looking for lol. but once you get pulled over by highway patrol, i say thats yet lol.

i think i pm you few days ago, i say would be great to discuss it throught that if you wanna to.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...