Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I'm desperately seeking a standard turbo from an M35 Stagea as ours is on its way out. Finding a replacement is proving difficult as there aren't any direct fit aftermarket options either.

If you have a M35 turbo that you're willing to sell please contact me with the price your after for it, Thanks in advanced.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350496-wtb-m35-stagea-turbocharger/
Share on other sites

you'll probably find it will be cheaper to high flow the turbo. most mech want you to drop the engine to rip the turbo out.. might as well rebuild it and you'll never have to deal with it again. put a stock one in, and expect it to go any day cheers.gif

Hmm wow Ur really serious?

I was kinda joking. Did u need the whole turbo assembly or just the turbine? Can any one confirm whether I the turbine will still be usable after hi flowing it?

Edited by ironpaw

Hmm wow Ur really serious?

I was kinda joking. Did u need the whole turbo assembly or just the turbine?

Oh thats a shame man, I'm deadly serious about getting a replacement unit asap thats all. I need the turbocharger unit completely.

Well AFAIK everyone who had the factory turbo die on them had them hi flowed. Which meant you keep the turbo housing but get new internals. Not sure why you fill you definitely need. A whole replacement unit? Hmm come on guys chime in...

Edited by ironpaw

Hey Iain yeah as discussed with ironpaw, basically my situation with the whole thing is I really need to have both units on hand to pull the out unit off and same day put the new unit on and hopefully never have to see this issue again as living rural as I do, access to workshops willing to have the car sitting in the workshop for days unmovable is out of the question so basically my grand master plan was to acquire a spare M35 turbo, given that people seem to push this high-flow business a lot it also seems to bring much better reliability with it as well which is ultimately what I want so upon getting the spare turbo, I was going to send away for that to be upgraded and returned (post service here usually takes 2 or 3 days to get anything to and from the cities + the time it takes to perform the upgrade means I'll be sitting around for over a week before being able to do anything.

So like mentioned, if I had a spare that I could send away in advanced, once it comes back and organise to book the car in to replace I can do it all same day and I'd obviously have my turbo useless to me sitting around so it would be beneficial for somebody else looking to go down the same path.

But i really quite honestly need this massive favour of getting a replacement unit first up in advanced thats all otherwise I'll have to fork over huge amounts of dollars to pay for the workshop space whilst it sits there useless to anybody. The bottom line is I've got the money to get hold of replacement turbo and send it off to upgrade but can't seem to find any place or any one who has a spare unit to do away with.

Hey Iain yeah as discussed with ironpaw, basically my situation with the whole thing is I really need to have both units on hand to pull the out unit off and same day put the new unit on and hopefully never have to see this issue again as living rural as I do, access to workshops willing to have the car sitting in the workshop for days unmovable is out of the question so basically my grand master plan was to acquire a spare M35 turbo, given that people seem to push this high-flow business a lot it also seems to bring much better reliability with it as well which is ultimately what I want so upon getting the spare turbo, I was going to send away for that to be upgraded and returned (post service here usually takes 2 or 3 days to get anything to and from the cities + the time it takes to perform the upgrade means I'll be sitting around for over a week before being able to do anything.

So like mentioned, if I had a spare that I could send away in advanced, once it comes back and organise to book the car in to replace I can do it all same day and I'd obviously have my turbo useless to me sitting around so it would be beneficial for somebody else looking to go down the same path.

But i really quite honestly need this massive favour of getting a replacement unit first up in advanced thats all otherwise I'll have to fork over huge amounts of dollars to pay for the workshop space whilst it sits there useless to anybody. The bottom line is I've got the money to get hold of replacement turbo and send it off to upgrade but can't seem to find any place or any one who has a spare unit to do away with.

Contact http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/user/76100-petrodola/

Pretty sure he has a spare rooted one!

Contact http://www.skylinesa...6100-petrodola/

Pretty sure he has a spare rooted one!

Hmm I might be mistaken, but I think he needs a spare working one!

Working one to get his car moving and the existing stuffed one for hi flowing!

Hmm I might be mistaken, but I think he needs a spare working one!

Working one to get his car moving and the existing stuffed one for hi flowing!

He'll be paying big dollars for a running item....better bet is to get Keir's one rebuild and sent to himself and do the change over once.

Saving in cost's probably close to $1,300 by the time you find a running one and do the work twice.....btw after you do a turbo swap on one of these you will never want to do it again!

Tell me about it, I got quoted $2300 for a new unit from Japan, almost fell over. But otherwise if the M35 was a bit more aftermarket friendly I'd be going that way for a turbo kit, actually I think the closest thing remotely I've ever found in terms of installation is a HKS GT-RS using a S15 flange, still needs custom fitting back to the intake pipe etc but I've seen a few examples in Japan with that done. But even so, a GT-RS still begs for big dollars.

We'll see how we go. Jetwreck, is there any specific tips/advice you can give in terms of removing the turbo? I actually have access to a workshop as the family acquired the facilities years back but its not managed by us so its still costing me in the long run but if I can get some advice before hand it might make the job easier.

I've seen the thread regarding the engine removal, as extreme as it sounds it's probably the most sane way to go about it but with access to a hoist and all the tools under the sun, could it be done any easier? What sort of troubles are we likely to run into?

Cheers.

ill give you a tip. with the engine not in the car, a turbo change would take around 30 mins.

labour to remove front of car and engine, probably 3 hours. and about that getting it back in.

not many knuckles lost in the process. no fiddly bolts etc to get off with no room to move the spanner.

put the dump on the turbo before you put the engine back in the car.

Tell me about it, I got quoted $2300 for a new unit from Japan, almost fell over. But otherwise if the M35 was a bit more aftermarket friendly I'd be going that way for a turbo kit, actually I think the closest thing remotely I've ever found in terms of installation is a HKS GT-RS using a S15 flange, still needs custom fitting back to the intake pipe etc but I've seen a few examples in Japan with that done. But even so, a GT-RS still begs for big dollars.

We'll see how we go. Jetwreck, is there any specific tips/advice you can give in terms of removing the turbo? I actually have access to a workshop as the family acquired the facilities years back but its not managed by us so its still costing me in the long run but if I can get some advice before hand it might make the job easier.

I've seen the thread regarding the engine removal, as extreme as it sounds it's probably the most sane way to go about it but with access to a hoist and all the tools under the sun, could it be done any easier? What sort of troubles are we likely to run into?

Cheers.

If you want you can give me a buzz and I'll talk you through the removal options......there's three way's of doing now!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...