Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

do a compression test, start on cylinders 6 and 5,

hopefully the engine is ok and if anything the turbo seals are leaking.

another thing to try is get an oil catch can but dont plumb it back in at air intake, only at the PCV,

mine started to blow small amounts of blue smoke due to a build up of oil in the cooler piping, cleaned this all out and setup my catch can to breath atmo (but it breaths near the air filter)

the way i see it is the high amount of vaccuum that the breathers normally get before the turbos actually suck the oil out of the head (too an extent)

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok. Update, changed front turbo oil drain as was a little kinked and soft, although I check my oil daily it has gone from super high to low in the space of hours (must be surface elevation)

Slight pooling in the front of each turbo (small though)

Engine runs 100% beautifully, holds normal boost ~1 Bar

Blows blue smoke on high revs/boost conditions not alot.

checked the intake and drains, found a small amount of oil pooling on one of the bottom bolts of the rear turbo.

Filled car with oil

Took for a strap.

Notice large amounts of oil smoke and residue blown around near rear turbo (externally)

one of pod filters in front has been covered in a large amount of oil and this same oil has also been sprayed around at the front of the engine bay near BOV recirculation pipe (the stock little black metal ones)

Any thoughts ?

did you do a comp test to determine the condition of the engine? do this 1st and then if the engine is ok do the following.

take the rocker cover breather that goes to the turbo intake off and put it into a bottle or catch can, block the opening now at the turbo intake.

clean out all your intercooler pipes, and empty your intercooler of all the oil, you will see what i mean when you get it off.

then refit it all and try again.

but it sounds like you have blow by caused by possible ring land failure and my guess is that it will be cylinder 5 and 6

did you do a comp test to determine the condition of the engine? do this 1st and then if the engine is ok do the following.

Ok I will comp test the engine, but will that show stuffed oil rings ?

take the rocker cover breather that goes to the turbo intake off and put it into a bottle or catch can, block the opening now at the turbo intake.

clean out all your intercooler pipes, and empty your intercooler of all the oil, you will see what i mean when you get it off.

then refit it all and try again.

are the above two steps to see if my engine is breathing into my turbo intakes ?

but it sounds like you have blow by caused by possible ring land failure and my guess is that it will be cylinder 5 and 6

There is ALOT of oil at the front of the pod filters ATM and around the piping (external) and alot around the rear turbo itself (external)

did you do a comp test to determine the condition of the engine? do this 1st and then if the engine is ok do the following.

take the rocker cover breather that goes to the turbo intake off and put it into a bottle or catch can, block the opening now at the turbo intake.

clean out all your intercooler pipes, and empty your intercooler of all the oil, you will see what i mean when you get it off.

then refit it all and try again.

but it sounds like you have blow by caused by possible ring land failure and my guess is that it will be cylinder 5 and 6

Ok, Update.

demo.jpg

I rerouted the pipe with the white arrow to a bottle (see through) with oil line and blocked off the end with the red hose.

Took the car for a strap, not one drop of oil was in the bottle when i was done and further there was none in the engine bay like before.

Comp test is being done on the weekend...

Any thoughts ?

I just noticed a misfire problem today high in the rev range on low boost (14psi) and hi boost (18psi)

I changed my spark plugs yesterday to bcpr7es and I gapped them to about 0.9mm, might need to re gap them down abit to 0.8mm?

Would closing them 0.1mm make a difference??

Car was running fine with old plugs which were gapped to 0.8mm

Michael, try the .8mm plug gap 1st, see if its still there.

Nee san, what you have done is removed the large vaccuum from the oil breathers which in my opinion is a good thing and helps keep all the cooler pipes etc clean, mine was doing exactly what yours was, thats why i recommended that mod to the breather system.

drive it around for a couple of days and see how it goes.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok Update time:

Comp test came back fine with all between 145 and 155 except # 5 which was 160.

When trailing throttle, say through a corner or after a big hit of accelerator once I back off or change gears occasionally there is a HUGE plume of blue some that last only for a couple seconds.

I think the turbo Oil seals are f**ked...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...