Torque Setting For Coilover Bottom Bolts

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

we just installed new bc racing coils yesterday, and i was reading somewhere that you need to tighten the bolts up when the coilover is loaded (aka car is on the ground) is this true?

also, is there a specific torque setting for these bottom bolts? we just did them as tight as we thought.

[89CAL]

Doesn't really matter when you tighten the bolts for the coilover. Putting it on the ground wont effect tension on the bolt/studs.

When I did mine I just did them nice and tight so can't help you with the torque settings

[HEKT1K]

the correct torque setting is FT

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

well, the forum i did read it from was a STI forum, so maybe theyre talking through there bum lol

we did it to torque setting FT while the suspension was non loaded, and dare say it will be fine, but just wanted to check that it wasnt more serious since this is the first time ive done my own suspension

[HEKT1K]

Swapped mine out a few times now, never had an issue.

Unless you're a girly man and can't tighten it very much?

[Branelly]

Hey im just about to install bc coilovers, was wondering the exact same question.

Anyway how long did it take? And do you have any pointers?

[89CAL]

Prob 2 hours or so depending on your tools/experience

Need to take back seat out (for r33) and have an extra jack because you might need to jack the hub up.

FYI I had to raise the rears by 25mm and fronts by about 15 for it to sit nice and not scrape so maybe do the same before putting them on the car. Im guessing they ship them all the same way anyway?

[Branelly]

Cool thanks.

My current wheels sit out the guards by at least 20mm, and right now its scraping around every corner that has a bump mid way. Well untill i get my gaurds flared anyway.

So how high do you think i would need to go? I was planning on setting it about 10-15mm lower than stock for now, then drop it once its been flared. Also will increasing the stiffness keep it from scraping if i keep it lower?

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

we did front first so...

-jack whole front of the car up so both wheels are off the ground.

-lock wheels one direction.

-undo bottom bolt.

-undo top 2 bolts.

-slide coilover out.

-reverse steps to install new coilover.

rear

-jack up rear of the car at the diff (make sure front end is down)

-take back seat out (can leave bottom part in the car to kneel on)

-slide parcel shelf out.

-take 2 brackets out that support parcel shelf.

-undo top bolts.

-undo bottom bolt.

-slide coilover out.

-revers steps to install new coilover.

job done. it was easier than we though, maybe 2 hours work?

to adjust heights

use general measuring skills on the coilovers.

-jack front of the car up so wheels are off the ground.

-undo bottom bolt and turn bottom section of the coilover up or down (after loosening the bottom location ring to desired height)

no need to take any wheels off for adjusting heights.

same with back.

Cool thanks.

My current wheels sit out the guards by at least 20mm, and right now its scraping around every corner that has a bump mid way. Well untill i get my gaurds flared anyway.

So how high do you think i would need to go? I was planning on setting it about 10-15mm lower than stock for now, then drop it once its been flared. Also will increasing the stiffness keep it from scraping if i keep it lower?

if the guard is about 20mm higher than the tire when locked then it should be fine i think.

you may hear scraping noises, but make sure you check that its not just the inner guard scraping on the tire, it does this for me. fix = screw a self tapper in the plastic where its scraping.

increasing stiffness should stop scraping if the wheel is to big, if you hear bits of scraping as you go over bumps then yes it possibly will help

Edited January 19, 2011 by Clutch

[Branelly]

Finished installing them yesterday, took a couple of hours just cruising through it. Really easy job for a beginner wanting to start doing his own upgrades.

As far as heights go only had to raise the back 25mm, just like you said. But it scrapes when going fast with mid corner bumps. Have left the front the same height they come with no problems.

Set the damper to 18 front and rear, seems stiff enough and bearable ride quality for normal street use.

The only thing im wondering now is what i should set the camber too? And weather or not i need adjustable camber arms to reach that amount of camber.

[89CAL]

youll need to replace the camber arm with an adjustable one. or you could get camber bushes from whiteline etc (check the whiteline website for what I'm talking about)

your rear wheels have a pretty aggresive offset dont they? might need to get your guards rolled or flared

[kenjz]

hey all.

old thread, new question.

im trying to take my coilovers out. and it seems as if that bottom bolt is not comming off.

it just spins around. but does not come off.

anyone know how to remove it?

[DVS JEZ]

U need to try an relieve the load off the bolt.

If ur strong enough try and lift the brake rotor/suspension slightly while trying to pull the bolt out.

If ur not strong enough the use a small jack carefully under the lower control arm. U need to jack it up just enough that the bolt will be relieved then u can remove it.

Its hard to remove because the suspension is hanging from that one bolt.