Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did some stripped doors (evo) for track stuff here in WA and if you can get to them, you basically drill out the spot welds and then give em a bit of a bash and they come out. But to be honest they dont weight very much . (4kg at most in an evo)

For the tarmac rally car, as has Snowy, I left them in. I hope I never need em, but am happy to lug them around just in case. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5635568
Share on other sites

Thought id let you all know what the results were.

The original doors complete were about 36kg. I have gutted them right out to a point where the door still should have good strength. I have managed to get them down to 15.2kg each without glass. The window weights just over 5kg. I am now going to get plastic windows made. Any idea what you reckon these should weigh?

Overall im pretty happy as this will be at least a 30-35kg saving for no cost oulay but for the windows and new mirrors. As a reference Sunline quote 3.5kg for their superlight carbon doors. These would be nice but just not practicle for the budget at this stage.

Anyway, if your thinking of gutting your GTR doors this is about the result you might expect.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5640835
Share on other sites

Thanks Matt.... so that was 36kg each? Looking to get Carbon Fibre Doors, and I was wondering the total weight saving..... Thanks!

Can you fit steel intrusion bars to the carbon doors?

Also, does anyone know what a standard r34 boot lid weighs?

Edited by TwinTurboCelica
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5640850
Share on other sites

So how did you remove the intrusion bars,,,I need to do my R33.

I was thinking of a small wheeled 180 degree angle grinder and or my dremmel using a million cutoff discs.

Cheers

Neil.

We used mini cutting discs in the die grinder to cut the intrusions out of the R32 doors. I think we went through two disks cutting them out.

Talk to Brad about it cause he did most of the work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5641726
Share on other sites

Yeah I remember doing it well. GTiR is the same.

I used some small cut off wheels on my die grinder. I hve a shit load of them Neil. Can sacrifice a few next time I see you.

I also vote for the 9inch angle grinder which will go through the whole door skin nicely if not the whole door.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5641881
Share on other sites

Kind of defeats the purpose...

There is a method to my madness. I don't want to fit a cage, but I think side intrusion bars are important for safety. Given you can get carbon fibre doors around 5kg, 4kg for intrusion bars, 5kgs for glass, 2kgs for add on trim... you could get a 36kg door down to 16kgs. Times by 2 doors, and you could save 40kgs. Well worth it IMHO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5642030
Share on other sites

So how did you remove the intrusion bars,,,I need to do my R33.

I was thinking of a small wheeled 180 degree angle grinder and or my dremmel using a million cutoff discs.

Cheers

Neil.

I used a 5" angle grinder to cut the bar in half. had to be very careful when cutting close to the door skin but there is a few mm grace. I then drilled out the spot welds (about 4 per end per bar) and then used a hammer and chisel to break them apart. Took me a while to do the first door whilst i worked it out but not long at all for the second one.

The side intrusion bars were about 4kg per door.

Cheers,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5644399
Share on other sites

+1 would not remove them unless you have a roll cage

I agree and this is a pure race car that has a very high end roll cage nearly completed in it. Otherwise i would leave them as is.

Also i cant see why anyone would bother stripping a car to this level if it was for the street. Would be a horrible noisy piece of junk to drive around in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351192-stripping-doors/#findComment-5644405
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...