Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

]Well got around to installing my catch can on the weekend and i went with this set up. Can any one tell me if this is correct way of doing it and if its working properly ? Any thoughts would be great. Car seams to be running fine but has a miis under boost but i think that due to plugs or coil packs cause just went on the dyno and had boost turned up . post-78172-0-11146500-1295788660_thumb.jpg

post-78172-0-04231900-1295788690_thumb.jpg

post-78172-0-31144800-1295788729_thumb.jpg

Yeah that's got the PCV catered for, but you can also run the valve cover breathers to it too.

It's prob better for the engine to vent it to air instead of back into the intake, but it's not very legal that way...

Pretty sure that won't work. You still have it set up so that oil and oil vapour can be sucked into the intake side of the turbo, particularly under boost (high load) conditions. And that is exactly when you don't want it to happen.

The PCV valve only opens under high vacuum (low load) and detonation from the oil vapour isn't a problem.

  On 23/01/2011 at 8:38 PM, blind_elk said:

Pretty sure that won't work. You still have it set up so that oil and oil vapour can be sucked into the intake side of the turbo, particularly under boost (high load) conditions. And that is exactly when you don't want it to happen.

Yeah but then you have to vent it to atmo which is not legal.

How is that different to how hes done it, still has the PCV and plumbed into the intake?

edit: my bad I thought he had done it like you had, you are right that is the better way to do it. When on boost it sucks the gasses via the catch can, when on vac it sucks straight out the cam covers avoiding oil in the turbo.

His is the opposite, when on vac it sucks via the catch can, when on boost it sucks the oil straight out of the cam covers into the turbo.

Edited by Rolls

thought i might of f#!!ked it. So what u have done is plumbed the catch can between the cam cover and the pvc taking out that pipe all togeather? did u notice a difference? will hook it up ur way just means bigger pipe and larger barb ends on the catch can witch will be a bitch to find. Thanks for the pics mate.

  On 24/01/2011 at 6:51 AM, blind_elk said:

No you don't!

Here's mine, stil complying with the requirement to have a fully sealed system not venting to atmosphere:

post-269-0-43814200-1295851834_thumb.jpg

post-269-0-26760300-1295851848_thumb.jpg

and you always run those hoses that close to the fan????

Thats better, you'll pass an epa/defect inspection with it set up like that as well.

I would have used black hose under the intake piping personally, but its functional at least.

Edited by Rolls
  On 24/01/2011 at 9:30 AM, 75coupe said:

and you always run those hoses that close to the fan????

I was thinking the same thing

that crazy close man.... i get scared by looking at the picture

  On 24/01/2011 at 9:30 AM, 75coupe said:

and you always run those hoses that close to the fan????

It's just the angle of view. If it were a problem, I would have done something different.

post-269-0-41304800-1295940050_thumb.jpg

nup still to close for my liking, I especially like the black electrical tape holding it in its 'safe' position... come on really you couldnt find a safer place to have them or is that all the hose you could afford...

  On 25/01/2011 at 6:45 AM, Rolls said:

Thats better, you'll pass an epa/defect inspection with it set up like that as well.

I would have used black hose under the intake piping personally, but its functional at least.

yeah i know it stands out a bit just a quick install got to fly out for work tomorrow so got some hose and fittings on order for when i get home plus don't really like the brass fitings i used. It won't stand out so much then. thanks for the advice guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...