Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i notice now lately when i enter onto the hiway and i put the gas all the way down i can hear a lil bit of tire chirp wheelspin) on the inside wheels while rounding the bend of the ramp onto the hiway. is is possible that the lsd is on its way out? would changing the diff fluids front and back help the situation? how bout the rear diff? do you guys think that after a while that the lsd action is dying due to the fluid not being changed in a while? can i possibly restore the action by doing the diff fluid flush and adding the lsd additive to the rear?

ps didnt really notice the wheelspin before

Edited by ck_chino
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351776-lsd-not-working/
Share on other sites

not really into doing burnouts, but i notice mainly coming out of a corner (hiway on ramp) the inboard wheels start to squeal.

but does the lsd action suppose to wear out over time?

Yes, its like a clutch it wears out over time. Changing the fluid will help keep wear to a minimum, but its not going to help AT ALL gain any lost LSD back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351776-lsd-not-working/#findComment-5644590
Share on other sites

i think i have the same issue as well..

but this is on normal take off, turning when taking off and through pot holes.

i'm loosing traction for abit and this is just normal driving.

i have 19x9.5 with kuhmo rubber and grannying it.

rear diff? tailshaft?!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351776-lsd-not-working/#findComment-5650565
Share on other sites

hang on. the original poster has a 32 GTR. they have a clutch pack 2 way LSD standard. if working correctly they will chirp wheel or shudder a bit when doing tight and slow turns. this is the LSD locking up and as one wheel has to travel a shorter distance than the other you get a chirp or a judder. it could be just that you are turning a bit more aggressively now and noticing it?

as for starscream do you have a GTR or GTST? it makes a difference they have very different LSDs. one is clutch pack type mech LSD, the other is viscous LSD (and they do wear out and single spin badly).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351776-lsd-not-working/#findComment-5650590
Share on other sites

hang on. the original poster has a 32 GTR. they have a clutch pack 2 way LSD standard. if working correctly they will chirp wheel or shudder a bit when doing tight and slow turns. this is the LSD locking up and as one wheel has to travel a shorter distance than the other you get a chirp or a judder. it could be just that you are turning a bit more aggressively now and noticing it?

as for starscream do you have a GTR or GTST? it makes a difference they have very different LSDs. one is clutch pack type mech LSD, the other is viscous LSD (and they do wear out and single spin badly).

i wasnt to sure what model original poster had.

should have figured it out by the signature 94 r32 = gtr

yeah mines just a gts-t.

thought it was similar/related to posted here!

looll

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351776-lsd-not-working/#findComment-5650745
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
    • sensible choice....and all 32s should be in yellow
×
×
  • Create New...