Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i know if i pull something the gtr becomes rear wheel so does that mean i can drift and how good does a gtr drift compare to a silvia because i have all those mods like oil cooler , suspension and roll cage that i dont want to go to waste when changing cars so i hope i can keep my gtr and drift as well

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35191-gtr-drifting/
Share on other sites

pull the 4 wheel drive fuse in the engine bay and youll drift all day and night, and next day amd week after and beter then any silvia, i dont even know why people waste their time drifting in sylvias. :flamed: :wassup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35191-gtr-drifting/#findComment-703161
Share on other sites

R32 GTRs weigh 1470kg, as opposed to a Silvia which is 1100kg from memory. Whilst the suspension and general design of the chassis of these vehicles is very similar, the Silvia is a much better choice for drifting due to the light weight and easy induced oversteer behaviour. For circuit racing however, its a whole different kettle of fish, when ATTESA is introduced.

This is not to say that you cant use a GTR for drift, it just isnt its ideal use. Much better than a HSV anyday...

R32 GTRs can just have the fuse pulled for slip and slide, not so easy in R33s however.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35191-gtr-drifting/#findComment-705051
Share on other sites

Guest INASNT
32 GTR is just a matter of pulling a fuse or setting up a switch in cabin

33 GTR i am not 100% sure but i think the later ones need the shaft pulled out

In a 32 GTR yes u can pull the fuse to get it into rwd mode, but if u intend to drive all day in rwd mode u need to take the front shaft out otherwise u will burn out the transfer case.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35191-gtr-drifting/#findComment-708487
Share on other sites

r32 takes 2 fuses to get into RWD, 1 under bonnet 1 in cabin... you can also get it into rear wheel drive by turning the car off and then on again while moving.... but as soon as you come to a complete stop the 4WD will re-engage.... by the way when you do both of these you also disable the ABS... :rofl: a fun and happy drifting...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35191-gtr-drifting/#findComment-710771
Share on other sites

Its because the GTRs 4wd ATTESA system is electronically controlled. When the computer senses the rears loose traction it can send up to half the torque to the fronts. If you remove the fuse or install an inline switch etc, it will become rear driven only.

Some1 tell me tho, how hard is drift on a GTRs CVs? Because we all know how cheap our jap parts are...

^ I made that all up. But i think its close... ^

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35191-gtr-drifting/#findComment-719660
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...