Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi, I just ordered a walbro pump for my r33gts. IT seems to have leads instead of the standard pumps screw terminals.

How do I install it? If I solder the new wires on will standard heatshrink be ok in the tank(and will not melt in petrol, and short)?

Or can I screw the two o-terminals together, and somehow insulate them?

Anyone remember how they did it?

cut, solder, heatshrink it and it will be fine. cable tie the wires seperatly if worried about that.

what i usually do when joining wires is stagger them. so dont cut and join both nect to each other make one join shorter or further down then the other join. i do this for all kinds of wiring jobs and it makes it neater and a little bit more reliable.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

crimped bullet connectors work awesome if you do a decent job of it, just make sure they're insulated sufficiently. today i pulled out my walbro which i used cheap shitty connectors with a few years ago, havent caused any problems but since i was putting the bosch in i decided to tidy up the wiring, and came up with this setup, now theres no more cutting required when i change pump.

also i've put an extra ground it (just for fun) that goes directly to chassis through the pump cradle, theres a spade terminal connector up top there on the factory cradle so what else could that possibly be for?

make sure you run the wires in such a way that they wont foul the float switch as it comes up.

post-74178-0-00796300-1299237997_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...