Jump to content
SAU Community

Knock Sensor Wiring

luvpsi

By luvpsi,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

luvpsi Mentor

luvpsi

Posted
Posted

sorry if thisin the wrong section guys. i have got a vl with rb25det. im currently connecting the drivers side loom. however im stuck with connecting the knock sensor wiring. the rb30 does not have knock sensors so there is no where to join the knock sensor wiring. does anyone here know how to do this or will i have to just run the wires to the ecu pinout. only thing im not sure about is im going to be running a aftermarket ecu which is going to professionaly wired in. so do i wire them into the stock rb25 ecu plug?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352454-knock-sensor-wiring/
Share on other sites
tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'd leave them on, whoever tunes it might want to use them, my car didn't have them because running motec and some of the reputable tuners did not want to lean on the motor because they weren't confident of hearing the knock..bitch of a job to put them on after with everything else in the way ( well it is on a GTR, no room )

Edited by tricstar
DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

if the ecu you are using cant use them then the tuner cant use them, if he wants to hear knock then get a knock box or a trained person under the bonnet to listen for knock.

i would just leave them on the engine though,

luvpsi Mentor

luvpsi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im trying to remove the r33 drivers side loom but it still connected to the knock sensors im not going to be using them so do they just unplug or do i have to cut the wires because i cant see what im doing under the manifold and dont want to take the manifold off just to undo knock sensors? or if they unplug does anyone know how they unplug

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...