Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 GTR Series 3's came with the vents from factory.

Known as Series 3 Front Bar, they direct more air to the front mount intercooler.

R32 GTR's have this as well and is know as the Nismo Front Bar, applying the same purpose of direction more air to the front mount intercooler.

Ohk so its not from standard. I was worrying my GTR had an aftermarket bar or something because i could've sworn nearly every gtr has these vents at the front.

Series 3 Front Bars can be bought after purchasing the car and added on later.

That does not make it a "Genuine" Series 3.

My R32 GTR is just a base model but has Nismo Front Bar and Side Skirt but does not make it a "Genuine" Nismo Edition.

What the? Im worried mine isnt a series 3 anymore. Could you please help. Here is a photo24012011230ed.jpg

That is a Stock Front Bar.

Get VIN Number off the Blue Build Plate you have in the engine bay and post it here - http://www.skylinesa...ou-want-fasted/

get the vin fasted.

Search 'FAST'

it will tell you what car and model it is.

+1

:)

Hey Joe, also, unfortunately, the front splitter (black part below the bumper) looks like a Series 1 or 2 (like mine was). The Series 3 has a deeper front splitter with larger brake cooling ducts.

As above I think the N1 ducts were an option from 1995 (I have a Japanese brochure which shows them as part of the accessories I think) but every S3 I've seen has them.

Does your car have red trim (fleck) inside, or blue? Blue = S1 / 2, Red = S3.

Really appreciating all this help as i have held of events for the day to stay on here for further info. The interior has red stitching in the seats and the steering wheel! and there is no a lsd light

Your car may indeed be a series 3 but if it doesnt have the alsd it may not be a vspec.

If you can see your diff housing check if there are hydraulic lines running to either side of the diff at the top.

Damn don't think its a v-spec then. Im calling the previous owner and going to sort thing straight with him, Im worried it may not be a series 3 because i can't find any lights for the rear fog light (if it even has one) because they are ment to be on the series 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...