Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok mates

So I'm building my rb25det motor, and I'm planning on pushing it to the limit.

I'm building 2 motors one with a stock head and one with a built head.

I'm using 87mm cp pistons and eagle rods in both motors. The comp is 8.5:1 for both motors,

The one with the built head is a 240sx and the one with the stock head is an r33 skyline.

Now the skyline has the following work done.

1. ACL main and rod bearings

2. N1 oil and water pump

3. ARP main and head studs

4. Crank collar and block to head restrictor ( one in the middle, lash lifters)

5. AMS GT950R turbo And 6boost manifold with 44mm tial waste gate.

6. Custom intake with top mount fuel rail and Sard 800cc injectors

7. Split fire coils, with HKS twin power.

8. MLS head gasket Cosmetic 1.2mm

9. Full exhaust with FMIC

10. External fuel pump and regulator

11. Power fc

Ross crank pulley

Clutch master twin plate aluminum fly wheel clutch kit.

Now that's the skyline. From what I've learnt from SAU I have tried and applied to this build.

Is there any other things I should do for this build, I'm planning on 500hp.

For the 240sx all of the above is basically the same just the head is built and the turbo is a GT42R with 60mm Tial waste gate. Planning on 800hp.

The oil pump in the 240sx is a greedy unit, I'm using a high volume sump, Haltech PS2000, Other than that the rest is the same.

I have left the head detail's out, But it will have valves and angle job, guides, cams , port and polished.

Please feel free to make a suggestion thanks in advance. the pics are of the old motor in the r33 skyline

post-37293-0-35908000-1296617041_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-05075800-1296617096_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-94472300-1296617152_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-34257700-1296617227_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-27398300-1296617294_thumb.jpg

Edited by MJTru
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352533-building-2-rb25-motors/
Share on other sites

From what i have heard the N1 oil pump for rb25 is good for 7500rpms mate. But in my last motor i sometimes ran it to 9000 and it lived. After taking the motor apart the pump looked fine, but i know at those rpms for a long time would kill it. The skyline motor failed do to detination. I ran about 26 psi on pump gas. All the signs are there. But this time will be different. 110+ octain for shore mate. I also am adding the oil drain kit from spoolimport to both heads, on both cars.

Does anyone know of some good 1000cc injector, with all info (ms accross different voltage points) Using Haltech ps2000.

thanks

Has anyone used the spoolimport oil drain kit for the rb25det and 26 heads.????

Will this control my oil problem. When i push the car hard the oil would fill up the catch can, at about 26 psi, for long high rpms. What i have done is put the oil restrictor in the block only in the middle cause i still have the lash lifter set up, and the spool oil drain kit.

post-37293-0-47347900-1296781916_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-54922500-1296781931_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-11569400-1296781999_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-00213100-1296782049_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-59086500-1296782108_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-72875100-1296782157_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-34728500-1296782199_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-99638100-1296782254_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-77357400-1296782302_thumb.jpg

post-37293-0-87639700-1296782392_thumb.jpg

Edited by MJTru

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...