Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This may not be to do with "what fuel is the best to use" etc, but it's quite amusing how people complain about the price of petrol, when 1litre of coca-cola is still more expensive than 1litre of fuel!

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

BP Ultimate 98!

I also filled up with Vortex on a stock r34 - definitely noticable. I would argue that you may not notice it if you drive your car ><30% throttle then yes it might be all the same. But I tell you once boost comes on and you wonder -- hmmmm I remember there being a bit more response & torque..

I once had to fill 95octane, I swear one day in the CBD - approx nov 2010 3 different servos had 98 out of service - I tell you this is the time I started believeing in the dodgy wednesday outof service policies where some servos take 98 out of service. Under no circumstance would I ever use 95 but I was so low I had no choice.

And hence 95 octane made the car feel like a 2ton hiace van.

Fact - The base fuel that the majority of fuel companies in WA use is from the BP refinery. I say most because some cheaper brands like Gull, Peak, United et al, import some of their base from Singapore as they may get it cheaper. Hence, why you never know what type of fuel is in them

Fact - All the majors spend millions of dollars on chemist, physicists to come up with mixtures that give them an edge over their competitors, so even thought the base is the same the end product is totally different.

Fact - BP Ultimate 98 is the only 98 RON fuel that is made as a 98 fuel from the start in WA. Shell do not supply their Optimax anymore anywhere in the world, they supply V-Power over east because they have refineries in Geelong (Vic) and Clyde (NSW) and ship/truck it to QLD, SA. Transport costs prohibit the supply in WA and they do not want to give BP their ingredients for them to make it at Kwinana, competitive forces at work. All the other 98 fuels in WA are made from additives, so to speak.

Fact - Not all fuels are the same, and anyone who thinks so is kidding themselves. A perfect example of this is Ethanol fuel, even with the same Octane rating you get less energy from it then an equivalent RON non ethanol fuel. Sometime you can get more power from 95 RON than 98 RON fuel if the density of the 95 RON is greater, but only if your car doesn't need the heat protection of higher RON, e.g. turbo cars.

Fact - They all have to comply with governemnt regulated maximums in sulphur, benzyne and minimums in RON but there are a lot m ore other factors that are not regulated and the different fuel companies use this for the competitive edge.

How do I know all this, I work for one of our fuel majors and have lived both here and in Vic. I can honestly say that the best fuel in WA is BP Ultimate 98, but overall the best is Shell V-Power, as I used it when I was in Vic.

So, go on and use the cheapest fuel or the most conveniant location on your pride and joy and you certainly will not be getting the most out of it and possibly damaging it.

I don't notice any difference between Caltex 98 or BP 98 on my car.

Currently using BP atm, since I got a $100 BP gift card from my parents but otherwise I mainly use Caltex since its cheaper.

Fact - They all have to comply with governemnt regulated maximums in sulphur, benzyne and minimums in RON but there are a lot m ore other factors that are not regulated and the different fuel companies use this for the competitive edge.

only problem with this is its never regulated after being at the servo and its very hard to tell when they're getting low. i've had bad batches from low servos a few times and there is no way in ther world it was still 98RON.

at the end of the day, its unlikely your gonna notice any difference between different brand of 98 on a stock car. if your cars been tuned, use whatever fuel it was tuned with. if its about to be tuned and you can afford their ridiculous prices, BP ultimate is usually the best.

JonnoHR31, the best regulator is the customer...if you suspect someone was ripping you off you can report it to the Consumer Protection agency. It is their reason for existence to help you out and investigate this. It is often the case that the most powerfull people, the customer, don't do anything 'cause of the attitude of being just one person and that is why some business's et away with ripping people off!

I don't notice any difference between Caltex 98 or BP 98 on my car.

Currently using BP atm, since I got a $100 BP gift card from my parents but otherwise I mainly use Caltex since its cheaper.

Yeah straight out I've been reading all the posts and to be honest I think sometimes Caltex Vortex 98 could even be better than BP Ultimate - but this could be due to fuel density or some other variable that has nothing to do with octane rating.

Caltex Vortex 98 is always cheaper as well but I am a born and bread BP fan especially after reading the big post a couple up haha :thumbsup:

JonnoHR31, the best regulator is the customer...if you suspect someone was ripping you off you can report it to the Consumer Protection agency. It is their reason for existence to help you out and investigate this. It is often the case that the most powerfull people, the customer, don't do anything 'cause of the attitude of being just one person and that is why some business's et away with ripping people off!

yer i know but by the time they get around to testing it they would have probably filled up as its usually only the nearly empty servo tanks that give you trouble.

u.k is tiny, they barely travel any distance by car, hence why higher fuel prices arent as bigger deal as here and the US

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...