Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Misfire/backfire/not Running That Sweet

HEAPHO

By HEAPHO,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

HEAPHO Apprentice

HEAPHO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nah it wasnt when I found it I maybe think that its was an old windscreen washer line as my car has a carbon bonnet maybe it just fell in there when they removed the old bonnet maybe not sure I'm thinking the air flow meter is had it and needs a new one and the trouble code cleared on the ecu ! Anyone in Perth got hook ups for new air flow meter ? cheers Tom

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

um duno man thats just how it came when i got the car mate

Yeah that is certainly an issue, really doubt it is what is happening here but it means on boost your crank case is getting pressurised, will cause excessive blow by and could blow your dip stick out if tracking the car.

You should get that stock hose on the right had side cam breather shown in the other setup, and connect it back into the intake on the right where its been blocked off.

HEAPHO Apprentice

HEAPHO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yea the solder joints looked pretty dry so re did them and re sealed up the air flow meter car still idles a bit funny and seem to be spitting a bit of black oily stuff out the exhaust what does that mean ? I need to take it in to mechanic ive done most of what I can at home it frustrating as the car is for sale and a guy wants it pending loan approval Ive told him its not running right but he still wants it id prefer to sell it running sweet but just see what happens if it falls through its going to mechanics to get sorted asap

Can I run two small breather filters instead of that pipe ??

thanks for everyones help

cheers

Tom

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

run 1 breather but on the end of a hose and have the filter under the airbox.

the black spits from the exhaust are normal, its condesation build up mixing with the soot in the exhaust.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 years later...
Antek Apprentice

Antek

Posted
Posted

In order to fix your idle problem, i recommend blocking and repairing any vacuum lines, ( block any lines that lead to know were start the car listen for changes), look at a engine diagram of the vacuum lines on the net and find out were they go to, in some cases its only a matter that the carbon filter or other have been removed and its causing an air leak witch then relates to your rough idle ( it rectified my problem)

check for cracks on your coilpacks, heat spots on your leads, if degraded, replace with new ones, also remove the cover that covers the coil packs, its only their for looks really,and will trap a lot of hot air witch will lead to the same problem, just don't wash or be careful when washing the engine use compressed air and a cleaning spray, aside from that do all your basic things like air filter clean it, o2 sensor and so on, you will be amazed at how basic it is once you find it. hope that helps if not their are a few other methods that can be done ( usually the problem is staring you right in the face)

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

In order to fix your idle problem, i recommend blocking and repairing any vacuum lines, ( block any lines that lead to know were start the car listen for changes), look at a engine diagram of the vacuum lines on the net and find out were they go to, in some cases its only a matter that the carbon filter or other have been removed and its causing an air leak witch then relates to your rough idle ( it rectified my problem)

check for cracks on your coilpacks, heat spots on your leads, if degraded, replace with new ones, also remove the cover that covers the coil packs, its only their for looks really,and will trap a lot of hot air witch will lead to the same problem, just don't wash or be careful when washing the engine use compressed air and a cleaning spray, aside from that do all your basic things like air filter clean it, o2 sensor and so on, you will be amazed at how basic it is once you find it. hope that helps if not their are a few other methods that can be done ( usually the problem is staring you right in the face)

Really? The thread is 4 years old! Do you not think he had it fixed by now?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • MBS206
      remote oil cooler hose size, 8,10 or an12?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      remote oil cooler hose size, 8,10 or an12?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
×
×
  • Create New...