Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It'll be the light switch itself. Ive just repaired my switch as I was having exactly the same problem! No dash or parkers but had headlights and brake lights...

The little plastic spring loaded triggers in the switch that move the metal contacts wear down giving you the problem youre have right now.

You need to disassemble the switch and replace the worn spring loaded trigger so it once again contacts the metal switch.

Think of the bushes in an alternator, same concept.

There is a thread with pics if you do a Google search, think its on another Skyline forum.

Edit - Here you go http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/115618-r32-headlight-switch-and-dash-globe-replacement/page__hl__r32+switch

Edited by NSNPWR
  • 6 months later...

It'll be the light switch itself. Ive just repaired my switch as I was having exactly the same problem! No dash or parkers but had headlights and brake lights...

The little plastic spring loaded triggers in the switch that move the metal contacts wear down giving you the problem youre have right now.

You need to disassemble the switch and replace the worn spring loaded trigger so it once again contacts the metal switch.

Think of the bushes in an alternator, same concept.

There is a thread with pics if you do a Google search, think its on another Skyline forum.

Edit - Here you go http://www.skylinesa..._hl__r32+switch

I have this exact problem right now in my 1994 R32 GTR , any chance of what its worth for a new switch ? thanks !

Edited by sultanaz

K so I've received PMs regarding this...

Use the guide in the above link

And I paid $50 for another 2nd hand working switch cause I needed it at short notice..

interior.jpg

*pic not my car, random off google

Edited by 10 4
  • 1 month later...

It was the switch that was causing the problem, the switchs themselves are heaps shit, worst quality to be honest... it burnt my wiring too which was expected, so what i did was went to the wreckers and pulled wiring off a N14 pulsar which connected straight up. obviously had different colours but u do the obvious and take notice what wire goes where before u cut the burnt harness.

Heres a few pictures of the switch for anyone for the future.

bdummq.jpg

308v34p.jpg

Heres the burnt Wiring and Switch photos

2dw3s4.jpg

kc10fk.jpg

2lo2cea.jpg

And a Computerised Version listing of R32 Parts.

2a9txsg.jpg

Hope that helps. Got any questions then give a buzz.

Edited by sultanaz
  • 8 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...