R32 Gts-T Drift Setup

[Plan-FAILURE]

Hi guys,

Very keen to get my car drifting but don't really know a lot about what you need to remove/fit/upgrade to get it setup.

Just looking for a list of the stuff I'll need to do to get the gts-t drift ready...

James

[defari]

huge penis

[Plan-FAILURE]

huge penis

i thought extremely small penis was preferable?

[bubba]

Coilovers, swaybars, cradle lock bushes, adjustable castor and camber, strong clutch, decent brakes + more.

[defari]

i thought extremely small penis was preferable?

i dunno - maybe start another thread about that.

on a more serious note - try searching first

[murph]

1st thing

Shim diff, cost you about $8 most important thing, no point going out single pegging.

2nd thing

suspension decent coil overs, also recommend an upgraded rear sway bar. Dont put an after market front on in will make it under steer.

Remove the HICAS

Bushes replace anything that is stuffed worn sloppy etc.

Tires dont bother with old 2nd hand junk it will only delamate and ruin your track time.

Then just track it, don't worry about extra lock knuckles etc, or big power . just drive it

Once you have the hang of it then go for power and lock

[Plan-FAILURE]

1st thing

Shim diff, cost you about $8 most important thing, no point going out single pegging.

2nd thing

suspension decent coil overs, also recommend an upgraded rear sway bar. Dont put an after market front on in will make it under steer.

Remove the HICAS

Bushes replace anything that is stuffed worn sloppy etc.

Tires dont bother with old 2nd hand junk it will only delamate and ruin your track time.

Then just track it, don't worry about extra lock knuckles etc, or big power . just drive it

Once you have the hang of it then go for power and lock

Cheers murph, great info mate.

As it happens I've got the power side more or less where I want it, handling is where my focus is now.

Some guys talk about disabling the power steering? has this got something to do with how easy you can flick the steering wheel/how easy the steering wheel snaps back to centre?

[Plan-FAILURE]

Coilovers, swaybars, cradle lock bushes, adjustable castor and camber, strong clutch, decent brakes + more.

so I have the strong clutch and brakes...bit of shopping to do hmmm

[bubba]

Can do some of that on the cheap, 32GTR rear sway bar for instance. Coilovers you should be able to pick up a second hand set of the forums for a reasonable price. For all the bushes, ring Matt @ WASuspension.

[Plan-FAILURE]

Can do some of that on the cheap, 32GTR rear sway bar for instance. Coilovers you should be able to pick up a second hand set of the forums for a reasonable price. For all the bushes, ring Matt @ WASuspension.

Cheers mate, legend.

[murph]

Castor rods are good,

Dont disable the power steering!!!

Brakes don't need to be up graded just a good set of pads and fluid Im running QFM ARM1 pads

Cradle lock bushes are a good Idea also

[bubba]

R33 GTSt brakes are a good cheap upgrade (calipers & rotors).

Personally I would be going to slotted rotors, decent pads, decent fluid, braided brake lines and a master cylinder stopper. That's pretty much my setup on both cars but the 32 runs 33gtr sized (324mm) DBA4000 slotted rotors and Ferodo DS2500 pads and the Stagea runs RDA slotted 350Z rotors and EBC Greenstuff pads.

Stock brakes usually work well, once. On the track, after a couple of heavy braking applications, you won't have much braking capacity left..

[Plan-FAILURE]

Castor rods are good,

Dont disable the power steering!!!

Brakes don't need to be up graded just a good set of pads and fluid Im running QFM ARM1 pads

Cradle lock bushes are a good Idea also

Yeah no after reading everything, disabling power steering doesn't seem to be warranted - especially for skylines. I was going to say that I will drift my car every now and then around roundabouts and long turns and I must say the feel of the steering is really nice.

Never heard of those pads before but I guess their strong azz going by how out of control (but in control) your 31 looks in that avatar

I'm gonna be replacing every bush on the car before it sees the track as well.

[Plan-FAILURE]

R33 GTSt brakes are a good cheap upgrade (calipers & rotors).

Personally I would be going to slotted rotors, decent pads, decent fluid, braided brake lines and a master cylinder stopper. That's pretty much my setup on both cars but the 32 runs 33gtr sized (324mm) DBA4000 slotted rotors and Ferodo DS2500 pads and the Stagea runs RDA slotted 350Z rotors and EBC Greenstuff pads.

Yeah DBA4000s, pads, fluid and lines are a must. The cylinder stoppers aren't a pricey item either so I'll do that as well.

I've got the 4 pot r32 calipers on the front - you reckon there would be a decent difference between the 32 4 pots and the 33 4 pots?

[d_soljah]

thats the series 2 r32 front brakes , they are i think slightly bigger then the 33gtst brakes, if not then the same.

[murph]

I dont know what track your planning on drifting at, but there is no point going to competition pads or bigger brakes. I ran mine the whole of last year with Stock HR front calipers EBC reds and stock R32 GTSt rear

The fronts were a slide caliper with a 22x 274 disk much smaller than any of the late model stuff

I never once had any fade drifting or the hardest hills work. The only time I ever managed to fade them was at the skyline nationals Circuit sprint.

The thing with drift is that at Mallala and Tailem bend (the only 2 tracks ive done) is that if you were to go to a all out race pad they would be cold by the time you get though stage up. You need something that works cold, the same goes for front tires, they have to work when they are reasonably cold.

I have upgraded my front brakes just last month to R32 GTR, but the only reason I have done that is for more readily available pads, and that I would like to take it out for some more grip work this year

Also The biggest problem most people have with brake fade is fluid fade. Brake fluid absorbs water from the air when it does this the boiling point drops dramatically, I change my fluid every 3 months maximum

Edited February 11, 2011 by murph

[bubba]

Yeah DBA4000s, pads, fluid and lines are a must. The cylinder stoppers aren't a pricey item either so I'll do that as well.

I've got the 4 pot r32 calipers on the front - you reckon there would be a decent difference between the 32 4 pots and the 33 4 pots?

33gtst calipers are pretty much the same as 32gtst but are to suit a 296mm rotor instead of a 280mm, normal 32gtr are the same size as 33gtst. Late 32gtr and 33gtr (non brembos) run a 324mm rotor (what I am running, with brackets to space the 33gtst calipers out).

Master cylinder stopper and braided lines make a nice difference too.

Edited February 12, 2011 by bubba

[Plan-FAILURE]

33gtst calipers are pretty much the same as 32gtst but are to suit a 296mm rotor instead of a 280mm, normal 32gtr are the same size as 33gtst. Late 32gtr and 33gtr (non brembos) run a 324mm rotor (what I am running, with brackets to space the 33gtst calipers out).

Master cylinder stopper and braided lines make a nice difference too.

I see.

I think I may stick with my stock calipers but upgrade to braided lines, quality fluid, EBC Reds and MC stopper. From here, if I'm having trouble with fade etc I'll upgrade to 32GTR calipers and rotors.

Mad info dude, cheers.

[Plan-FAILURE]

I dont know what track your planning on drifting at, but there is no point going to competition pads or bigger brakes. I ran mine the whole of last year with Stock HR front calipers EBC reds and stock R32 GTSt rear

The fronts were a slide caliper with a 22x 274 disk much smaller than any of the late model stuff

I never once had any fade drifting or the hardest hills work. The only time I ever managed to fade them was at the skyline nationals Circuit sprint.

The thing with drift is that at Mallala and Tailem bend (the only 2 tracks ive done) is that if you were to go to a all out race pad they would be cold by the time you get though stage up. You need something that works cold, the same goes for front tires, they have to work when they are reasonably cold.

I have upgraded my front brakes just last month to R32 GTR, but the only reason I have done that is for more readily available pads, and that I would like to take it out for some more grip work this year

Also The biggest problem most people have with brake fade is fluid fade. Brake fluid absorbs water from the air when it does this the boiling point drops dramatically, I change my fluid every 3 months maximum

Yeah you make some very good points mate.

I think, as I enjoy grip just as much as drift, I'll eventually put 32gtr calipers on but for now I'll concentrate on the fluid and pad side of things.

I guess brakes aren't a major player in the success of a drift car being that you spin wheels to turn rather than apply the brakes at every bend like with grip.

[nato_wp]

A more relevant point is that typically when you lose it during a drift, you had little or no traction at the rear wheels, and then you lost control or traction at the fronts, and a tyre sliding perpendicular to it's designed direction of travel (in the most extreme example of slip angle) isn't going to transfer much braking force before it locks up completely, causing you to skid in the direction of momentum until you slow down.

You may use the brakes to initiate the drift (a jab to transfer weight to the front), if so, you would possibly require a setup that can hold a bit more heat, but again, stock brakes with good fresh fluid and a nice midrange pad (Another advocate of QFM products here btw) should be more than adequate until you have enough experience to begin identifying specific areas of improvement on your own.