Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I am selling my daily R32 Skyline. Have owned the car for about 6 months now and it has never missed a beat & been extremely reliable. Absolutely fantastic car. Need the cash ASAP as I've planned an overseas trip. Please see details of the vehicle below.

Make/Model: 1990 R32 Skyline GTS-T

Color: Black

Transmission: Manual 5spd

KMS: 160k

Reg Expiry: September 2011

Location: Epping

Contact: Dean - 0401 682 270

Mechanical Modifications/repairs:

-Trust Return Flow Front Mount Intercooler

-3inch turbo back exhaust system

-Cushion Button Clutch (very drive-able)

-Apexi Pod Filter

-Walbro Fuel Pump

-R32 GTR Front Brake Calipers with new discs & new Bendix Pads

-New Battery

-New Waterpump

-New Timing Belt

Exterior & Handling:

-Tien Super Street Coilovers

-17inch Volk GTC Wheels

-M Spec Body Kit

-GTR N1 Rear Lip

Interior:

-Deep Dish Steering wheel

-MP3 Player

-Aftermarket front & rear speakers

-Skyline Floor mats

Price:

-$7,850ono *urgent sale*

Overall comments: The car drives really well. Has been my daily ever since I bought it when it was completely standard & hasnt given me any problems what so ever. Although the thrust bearing is a little noisy, the engine and gearbox seem to be A1. Gearbox slides into every gear & the engine feels very strong. Pulls like an RB25. Engine has never had a boost controller or been boosted. Always runs 98 octane fuel & fully synthetic oils. Spark plugs were also replaced 2000kms ago. Pictures of the car are below.

backside1.jpg

backside2.jpg

backside3.jpg

frontside1.jpg

side-1.jpg

Side2.jpg

Edited by Dean_HR31
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...