Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep that unfortunately looks like it, as everything else has been done without taking the engine apart and everything looks fine, all timing was re-checked yet again to no surprise it was fine and I wish it was the timing that would be an easy fix but putting even half a degree in and the engine will prob shoot a piston out the bonnet :nyaanyaa:

edit:

when this engine is stripped for the 3rd time a full report will be done on the teardown just so the original engine builder can be told and shown by a 3rd party

Edited by blinksta

Reading this entire thread makes you just shake your head, really it does.

Seriously but, how the fck did you come to the conclusion that the rings are upside down without even having the head off? Why are your compression tests totally different from one another? Why did you oil squirters snap off the first time? Did the same person rebuild this motor?

If this was an engine builder he would be out of business, end of story.

I think someone else here had a go at building there own motor personally, and the whole thing has ended up in a shit heap.

Best of luck building it the 3rd time lol.

Reading this entire thread makes you just shake your head, really it does.

Seriously but, how the fck did you come to the conclusion that the rings are upside down without even having the head off? Why are your compression tests totally different from one another? Why did you oil squirters snap off the first time? Did the same person rebuild this motor?

If this was an engine builder he would be out of business, end of story.

I think someone else here had a go at building there own motor personally, and the whole thing has ended up in a shit heap.

Best of luck building it the 3rd time lol.

First off cool story bro and if you can come up with a suggestion without pulling the head off speak now or forever shut up.

I didn't come to the conclusion a tuner/ builder and another highly recognized tuner (obvious reasons I'm not mentioning business names or tuners) came to the conclusion and with a problem that shows no obvious signs of what can be the problem, and every test to try and find the problem without taking the head off, my guess is your answer if this problem was presented to you is "it's fckd mate".

The reason for the tests is because if you have any idea (which you don't) is not to void warranty/ liability with the business that built the motor (and yes it was sent back to the original builder).

As for being out of business for a returned service/ product "end of story" every business in Australia...wait...the world would be out of business by your belief, and your "thinking" I'm shocked that you can put one foot in front of another each morning.

A number of reasons can pull different results, changing weather, cold/ hot, different gauges...etc.....far out I just realized why am I arguing with an idiot no one will know the difference >_<.

:thanks:

First off cool story bro and if you can come up with a suggestion without pulling the head off speak now or forever shut up.

I didn't come to the conclusion a tuner/ builder and another highly recognized tuner (obvious reasons I'm not mentioning business names or tuners) came to the conclusion and with a problem that shows no obvious signs of what can be the problem, and every test to try and find the problem without taking the head off, my guess is your answer if this problem was presented to you is "it's fckd mate".

The reason for the tests is because if you have any idea (which you don't) is not to void warranty/ liability with the business that built the motor (and yes it was sent back to the original builder).

As for being out of business for a returned service/ product "end of story" every business in Australia...wait...the world would be out of business by your belief, and your "thinking" I'm shocked that you can put one foot in front of another each morning.

A number of reasons can pull different results, changing weather, cold/ hot, different gauges...etc.....far out I just realized why am I arguing with an idiot no one will know the difference .

Firstly, Im not your "bro". Lets get that out of the way.

Secondly, your calling me an idiot? Do you want to know how many times I have rebuilt my motor?

Once.

That's right, I did it once the first time and I did it right, and it was a hybrid 30/26. I remember reading your other thread about oil squirters snapping off and thinking what the fck has happend there, so going back to my original question, did you take it back to the same builder? If so your dumb.

Different gauges is not an excuse as to why you had a compression test and recieved totally different results. I mean where not talking a few PSI difference here, you literally went from one extreme to another which is just not possible regardless of the type of gauge, hot day, you name it. I mean why would you be using different gauges anyway? You would use the same comp gauge each time to maintain consistancy.

If your an engine builder, and you do this for a living, you don't put rings in upside down. It's the most basic point of call and generally not something that is mucked up, even then it would not explain why you have massive inconsistencies in your comp results. I won't bother explaining why this is so because you most likely won't understand anyway.

In short, your an idiot.

Good day.

  • Like 2

Firstly, Im not your "bro". Lets get that out of the way.

Secondly, your calling me an idiot? Do you want to know how many times I have rebuilt my motor?

Once.

That's right, I did it once the first time and I did it right, and it was a hybrid 30/26. I remember reading your other thread about oil squirters snapping off and thinking what the fck has happend there, so going back to my original question, did you take it back to the same builder? If so your dumb.

Different gauges is not an excuse as to why you had a compression test and recieved totally different results. I mean where not talking a few PSI difference here, you literally went from one extreme to another which is just not possible regardless of the type of gauge, hot day, you name it. I mean why would you be using different gauges anyway? You would use the same comp gauge each time to maintain consistancy.

If your an engine builder, and you do this for a living, you don't put rings in upside down. It's the most basic point of call and generally not something that is mucked up, even then it would not explain why you have massive inconsistencies in your comp results. I won't bother explaining why this is so because you most likely won't understand anyway.

In short, your an idiot.

Good day.

Another cool story bro, you keep doing this we will become bff :teehee:

The reason for not explaining is because you can't, come on oh great engine builder that doesn't get anything wrong. Here's something to comprehend nimrod thousands of people develop and test a multitude of various gadgets and gizmos to help people and I bet when there making these things they think the same thing this can't/ won't go wrong...then it happens, you do something a million times over odds suggest YOU WILL GET IT WRONG AT LEAST ONCE look it up BRO that my friend is basic and because you can't comprehend that makes you such idiot.

Basic trade law interpretated says any business that either provides service or product can ask to have said service re-done free of charge or product send back for refund or replacement within reason and if failed a second time can be charged (relating to service) the fee from someone else to have the work done again, which is provided that the work done second time around fails is because of them (the engine builder).

So in short remember breathe in then breathe out as you will die if this is not repeated through your life and putting one foot in front another will lead you to a long walk off a short cliff and provide many lulz (at your expense)

  • Nope 5

Another cool story bro, you keep doing this we will become bff :teehee:

The reason for not explaining is because you can't, come on oh great engine builder that doesn't get anything wrong. Here's something to comprehend nimrod thousands of people develop and test a multitude of various gadgets and gizmos to help people and I bet when there making these things they think the same thing this can't/ won't go wrong...then it happens, you do something a million times over odds suggest YOU WILL GET IT WRONG AT LEAST ONCE look it up BRO that my friend is basic and because you can't comprehend that makes you such idiot.

Basic trade law interpretated says any business that either provides service or product can ask to have said service re-done free of charge or product send back for refund or replacement within reason and if failed a second time can be charged (relating to service) the fee from someone else to have the work done again, which is provided that the work done second time around fails is because of them (the engine builder).

So in short remember breathe in then breathe out as you will die if this is not repeated through your life and putting one foot in front another will lead you to a long walk off a short cliff and provide many lulz (at your expense)

You've made your point buddy, but unfortunately when you rock up with all the expertise in the world and spout this cynical shit at the OP because you think you're oh so great, you're let down by the fact you've contributed 56 posts in a touch over 3 years to this lovely forum. Given your previous posts in this thread, I'd say there's a good chance you're saying what you are due to having heard someone else say it in the past.

I'm sorry but it's just so rich to go putting bold text for sarcastic emphasis into your post, yet boast such a low contribution...

  • Like 1
  • Nope 1

Even if someone is an idiot or completely wrong (not saying anyone here is) there's no need to get in a huff and feel the need to bring their rep down, can go about these things in a more civil mature manner that way everyone learns something.

Edited by Rolls

You've made your point buddy, but unfortunately when you rock up with all the expertise in the world and spout this cynical shit at the OP because you think you're oh so great, you're let down by the fact you've contributed 56 posts in a touch over 3 years to this lovely forum. Given your previous posts in this thread, I'd say there's a good chance you're saying what you are due to having heard someone else say it in the past.

I'm sorry but it's just so rich to go putting bold text for sarcastic emphasis into your post, yet boast such a low contribution...

I am the OP and champ with the name Trozzle coming into my thread speaking of contribution of 56 posts in a touch over 3 years and all your posts (give or take being useless entries as that is what a troll does) thats a bit rich coming from you as all your valid posts would equal mine...maybe hahaha....Are you positively annoyed friend?

Even if someone is an idiot or completely wrong (not saying anyone here is) there's no need to get in a huff and feel the need to bring their rep down, can go about these things in a more civil mature manner that way everyone learns something.

I (and everyone else involved with my engine) would love to be wrong on this then the engine wouldn't need to taken apart, and which is why I posted this in case anyone else has the same problem in the future.

As for the negative rep, you can't help that people read something on a forum and just have the need to neg something because they can even if it's non-related to them, I haven't neg'd any post in my thread.........yet

  • Nope 2

I am the OP and champ with the name Trozzle coming into my thread speaking of contribution of 56 posts in a touch over 3 years and all your posts (give or take being useless entries as that is what a troll does) thats a bit rich coming from you as all your valid posts would equal mine...maybe hahaha....Are you positively annoyed friend?

I (and everyone else involved with my engine) would love to be wrong on this then the engine wouldn't need to taken apart, and which is why I posted this in case anyone else has the same problem in the future.

As for the negative rep, you can't help that people read something on a forum and just have the need to neg something because they can even if it's non-related to them, I haven't neg'd any post in my thread.........yet

It's all in your attitude buddy :) wake up and realise you're nothing in the grand scheme of things, might help with getting off your high horse.

  • Like 1
  • Nope 1

oh I didnt mean the forum rep, was just talking about people calling others idiots.

no worries :thumbsup:

It's all in your attitude buddy :) wake up and realise you're nothing in the grand scheme of things, might help with getting off your high horse.

The view is good from up here, how is it in the ditch :whistling:

  • Nope 1

Either way still post up what was wrong, once you have found out.

U sure you don't have one of these: Variable Compression Ratio (VCR) engines

Just a small joke, go on have a little chuckle. And i completely agree with you about warranty and taking it back to original mechanic/builder.

Edited by Shazza24

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...