Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Trying to install a set of QFM pads I bought from a guy here. The back ones were easy. Removed the old, grabbed the old brake pad in the caliper to compress the piston. Slide out and insert new one.

The front is being a bitch. I can't compress it. No matter how hard I squeeze it(using those adjustable plier things). When the pads are in and on the car and someone presses the brake, I can feel them moving, I just cant push them back. Does anyone have any advice? Do these need to be turned or forced?

R33 GTST Series 2.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354699-changing-brake-pads-help/
Share on other sites

firstly, be careful!

the piston needs to slide back straight into the caliper. if you try and force it at an angle it might seize. and if you push even harder you might manage to score the bore and damage it permanently.

firstly....clean everything really well with brake cleaner. this will remove as much old brake dust as possible. even scrub lightly around the piston with a nylon brush.

then - before pushing it back, make sure your master cylinder is almost empty. If it is not it will overflow when you push the pistons back.

then, you need to push them back as straight as possible. use something long and wide to lever them downwards like a large spanner or thin hammer. take it slowly and change from side to side to make sure they go evenly. a g clamp is even better it will push them back straight.

I will buy some brake cleaner tomorrow. I don't want to interfere with the hydraulic system as I just recently had my fluid topped and bleed properly.

Can I do one piston at a time or should I do both at once? One at a time I can use a clamp to squeeze each one in. I can squeeze the 2nd brake pad in its just the one that sits on the outer side I cant push in.

they should all retract exactly the same way. if one is much tighter it is probably not straight or already seized.

as you push one piston in all the others will want to move out. you have to push them all together, or hold 3 while you push the other one

I normall leave a brake pad in against the pistons u are pushing on. This helps move them together and keep them square.

Use the adjustable multi grip pliers and squeeze.

If ur brake fluid has recently been topped up then once u push the pistons into the caliper there will be brake fluid all over the firewall. When this happens wash it down immediately with water

f**k finally done with just slightly overflowing the fluid bottle. I used a multi grip, the one with the screw end to adjust bite, and a piece of cardboard wedged between the pad and the rotor to ensure it sits flat as possible and slowly squeeze then adjust the tool to be tighter then squeeze until I fit the other one in.

I cleaned off as much of the gunk as I could and I think that helped.

Cheers guys, now I just need to find the damn retaining clip for the push pins.

Its not the wire part bro its the metal thing which puts tension on the two pins, the flappy piece of metal. I went to a skyline wrecker and he wont sell it to me because he reckons he wont be able to sell the caliper without it lol.

%21B6d%21lowEWk%7E$%28KGrHqF,%21g8EyrpG2ZJEBM%29YR-JeM%21%7E%7E_1.JPG?set_id=8800005007

Its the n parts you can see above NIssan. Where can I get them? Are they essential to have? Would Nissan have them? Ive been driving my car since I bought it, without it lol.

umm that is not ideal, the spring clips hold the pad in the caliper.

I have used r pins for years instead of the wire to hold the pins in, but I've never tried it without the spring clips

well the pins should keep the pads in the caliper ok, but from memory the spring clip works to keep the pads up against the pistons. without them the pads 'might' rattle around a bit on the pins but most likely they'll be ok. personally though I would just call up nissan and buy a pair and stick them in. they are not expensive (maybe $20 for a pair) and easy to put in.

BTW when you were first trying to push the pistons in did you have the cap off the master cylinder? seen plenty of people trying to push pistons in with the cap still on which makes things pretty hard as the system is sealed so there's no room for that pressure to go. eventually the pressure will escape somewhere (usually through the cap) but sometimes it pops post the master cylinder seal etc which is not good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
    • Wife and I are still looking for a new home. One condition was a large enough garage for a full-size lift in one bay. Now if only we could find something... We've been looking for almost a year now.
    • Thanks everyone for the ideas! Sadly, ramps are a no go for me. With young kids at home, I do most of my work late at night while they're sleeping. Starting the car multiple times wouldn't be a great idea.  I'll go see one of those new long reach low profile jacks and take a couple measurements to see if they will fit.   
×
×
  • Create New...