Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About 4 years ago bought an Aussie R32 GTR with a damaged engine. Apparently the idler puller had let get (when it was idling, cooling down after a dyno run) and did major damage to the head when the timing went out.

I replaced the motor with a fresh R33 GTR motor (I still have the original motor plus a spare block, head and gearbox, other bits like dump pipes and bigger turbos). New clutch, new brakes.

I have only driven about 4,000km since the new engine.

Overall mechanically good.Interior very tidy. Minor cosmetic body problems and a few spots of rust near windscreen that haven't changed in 4 years. Pretty much original condition except for bigger intercooler and exhaust.Drives well. 246,000 kms.

I no longer have much opportunity to drive it and it is a car that would do better being used than stored.

I was hoping it may be an appreciating asset but I am not sure if I should sell it or store it for 10 yrs.

I am not sure what it would be worth as there are a couple of these, possibly better condition, chasing $78k and $60k.

Any thoughts?

Frank

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354711-aussie-delivered-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Its sure to appreciate but how long it takes is the question. I reckon you might be waiting 20yrs before its valuable..But that give you a lot of time to gather up parts for a ground up rebuild to original condition..Just think what a fully restored muscle cars goes for these days, they're not cheap. GTRs may be plentiful now but 1 by 1 they are getting over modded and smashed,crashed bent twisted and stuffed. I guess it depends what its costing you to store it..If its not costing and you dont need the cash let it sit..It is a solid investment and you wont regret it..

Edited by Arthur T3

Not to be a knob, but surely for it to be worth something, it has to be totally original? Including engine...

And its got 246k kms (Yes, I know imports are wound back etc)

It does look really good though.

Edited by Ten Four

Hey Ten Four what wing are you running in that pic

?

It looks like a standard wing.

Here are some pics of mine that I took last Sunday......... The garage was owned by the original owner when the car was new.

Bob.

post-78207-0-70632100-1298314324_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-13251200-1298314329_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-82957000-1298314333_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-09173700-1298314338_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-54802100-1298314342_thumb.jpg

post-78207-0-21924900-1298314347_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Frank, do you have books for the car? If you were to sell it i would rebuild the standard motor and get it back as close to standard as possible.

The vehicles you have seen going for big dollars are mint units like Bobs maroon one above (with 50kms on it).

These cars will shoot up in value in another 10 years, where they go from there is anyones guess. If the cash is not a problem Id just remove the fluids, stick it up on stands and leave it be.

Keep and use the original block whatever you do.

Even if you mod it just make sure it looks standard. Inside no one could tell if its an HKS 2.8 stroker or a standard 2.6:)

I'm all for modding but keeping standard appearance (aside from suspension, exhaust and wheels). Except for Bobs, which still looks like he took delivery from Nissan this morning so probably best let his car become the museum piece in the future!

Edited by gtr fan

It looks like a standard wing.

Here are some pics of mine that I took last Sunday......... The garage was owned by the original owner when the car was new.

Bob.

I recognise that workshop. Although since moving to sydney in 1985 I don't recall ever seeing a car in that brilliant showcase on the front! Is that workshop still operational?

Not to be a knob, but surely for it to be worth something, it has to be totally original? Including engine...

And its got 246k kms (Yes, I know imports are wound back etc)

It does look really good though.

Wanted to get it up and running at the time.

Have original block etc.

Probably enough bits for two engines but not the enthusiasm.

Frank

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...