Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Moving onto the land of the RSfour soon. Current car is a 1996 Series II R33, just need a quick rundown on what i should be looking for when i purchase the stagea im looking at.

Some quick details about the car are

1996, Series II, Rsfour, Rb25det neo, 84,000km, twin sunroofs, Dayz edition and factory manual (supposedly)

I have test driven the car and when i took it for a drive i couldn't even hear the turbo spool and if i did it was not much spool noise at all, I couldnt even hear a bov when i backed of the throttle. Is this normal? and how can i tell if the car has been converted to manual from automatic? This car feels nowere near as quick as my R33 (virtually stock apart from basic modifications) i know the car is alot heavier but i would have at least thought it would have a little bit of umph.

maybe i just need to drive it again...

Best regards and looking foward to some answers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355080-have-a-nice-stagea-lined-up/
Share on other sites

sweet as thanks heaps dude, going to check the tags and see how i go from there,

could anyone give me some more information on the other questions i've asked

Best regards chris

its got a recirculating BOV, so you wont hear the BOV, the turbo is not heaps noisy, but you can hear it, at about 2.5k rpm you should be able to hear it spool up. pretty high pitched whine.

check the instrument cluster, if it has the middle section (between speedo and revs) if it has the N, R,D etc, then it used to be auto. other than that, i dont know how the inside was different to a auto, besides the steering wheel which had the +/- symbols on it

yeah completely understand what your saying, i got a plumback on my R33 and that is fairly loud, and you can hear the turbo spool a mile away compared to this.

will need to go take another look just to be sure...the WGNC stands for series II RSfour S i believe

Will need to go for another drive and look this saturday i think, not sure if ive missed anything else before i make a purchase?

Alright, here's a basic run-down:

Model:......................Driveline:...............Engine:..............Chassi

Code:

RS Four S..................AWD manual..........RB25DET Neo......WGNC34

RS Four V..................AWD......................RB25DET............WGNC34

RS Four.....................AWD......................RB25DET............WGNC34

RS............................RWD......................RB25DET............WGC34

25X Four...................AWD.......................RB25DE.............WGNC34

25G Four...................AWD.......................RB25DE.............WGNC34

25X..........................RWD.......................RB25DE.............WGC34

25G..........................RWD.......................RB25DE.............WGC34

20G..........................RWD.......................RB20DE.............WHC34

So, basically, when it comes to model spec, "RS" is anything turbo, "RS Four" is turbo AWD, "Four" is any AWD, and "RS Four S" is turbo AWD with manual (series 2 only, and there were NO turbo RWDs).

As far as chassis codes, series 1 all had an "E-" prefix (such as E-WHC34), and series 2 all had the "GF-" prefix (such as GF-WGNC34).

WHC = RB20DE power (the lowest model and in one spec level and RWD only)

WGC = RB25DE or RB25DET power, and RWD only

WGNC = RB25DE or RB25DET power, AWD.

So, H = RB20 power, G = RB25 power, and GN = RB25 + AWD.

All this info was found RIGHT HERE, and I will update the first post when I have time with more specific details regarding release dates, spec levels, and options.

Maybe this will clear some things up...

Sorry, edited my post to what it should of been haha. Thinking out aloud...

RS Four S is factory manual, with gauges above the air con, different interior, different wheels and also has a rear LSD.

nah its fine man, did the same today myself.. had a long day at work like myself im assuming

car has 3 gauges above the electronic climate control unit, similar interior to a R34 gt-t and im not 100% but i thought i read some were that the lsd was a option on the car.

Heres a link and take a look tell me what you think, i believe its the RSfour S... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=220739948704 Not too sure if its factory manual one of the few things i did notice was the clutch pedal was a bitch to depress for a short period of time due to the force required to push it in. Should be able to solve that problem with a new slave cylinder.

Just want to know if it was a factory manual or auto as i want a factory manual

I got an s2 RS4-S with no guages above the climate control? my interior is very close to an R34GTT and you sit very low in the car and yes rear LSD (mines very tight and skips the inside wheel on tight turns.

if you want to know if it was originallt manual get someone to run the vin though FAST, also with the clutch, if its heavy i dare say the pressure plate has packed it in (or it has a heavy duty clutch) but doubt it) instead of the slave but its worth using that problem to bargin them down.

Your link doesn't load.

On an RS4S there should be a torque, battery voltage and boost gauge in the centre. The seats and door trim should be identical to an R34 GT-t skyline. There are a few other things but this will usually rule out most of the aftermarket conversions.

It sounds like an aftermarket heavy duty clutch....and yes the car is much heavier than an R33 so they are doggier off the line.

I got an s2 RS4-S with no guages above the climate control? my interior is very close to an R34GTT and you sit very low in the car and yes rear LSD (mines very tight and skips the inside wheel on tight turns.

if you want to know if it was originallt manual get someone to run the vin though FAST, also with the clutch, if its heavy i dare say the pressure plate has packed it in (or it has a heavy duty clutch) but doubt it) instead of the slave but its worth using that problem to bargin them down.

Ahh, just what i would of needed another ball buster of a clutch replacement. Like the last one wasnt enough, i did it alone with the car up on a few jacks then resting the box of my 33 on my chest. :/. Not sure if i recall sitting low to the ground but the interior matched very close to a R34 gt-t

Do you think you might know anyone with a Fast program they could run the vin through?

Your link doesn't load.

On an RS4S there should be a torque, battery voltage and boost gauge in the centre. The seats and door trim should be identical to an R34 GT-t skyline. There are a few other things but this will usually rule out most of the aftermarket conversions.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1999-Nissan-Stagea-4WD-C34-Twin-Sunroof-Manual_W0QQitemZ220739948704QQcategoryZ35227QQcmdZViewItem heres the link, open up a bigger view of the photos and tell me if you guys can rule out a conversion of any kind by the pictures.

99% sure you can rule out a onversion - looks pretty factory to me. It actually looks like a nice car, and in response to your original question, a few things to look for

Check the doors near the mirrors for rust. Also have a close look at the front strut towers, and the subframe mounting points under the arse end. Some of these areas can be pretty expensive to fix due to being very labour intensive.

Make sure the uni's in both the driveshafts are nice and tight, and make sure you do full lock to lock tests on the test drive, like you would a FWD vehicle. Front shafts can cop a flogging if its been driven hard.

Looks like a bloody nice car if its in good nick

looks like a factory manual.

i've got a factory manual and all signs point to it being a factory manual. same seats, same gauges, same console trim, has the factory rims, and the rsfourS stickers on the back.

only thing is its not a dayz edition - it only has a dayz rear spoiler, not the full kit. looks like a nismo rear muffler too.

there is no way it will feel like a 33, so much heavier and AWD.

and stock airbox and SMIC is virtually silent. i changed my airbox to a pod though, and you will defintely hear it - mine sounds like a jet.

  • Like 1

thanks heaps guys means alot. You guys in the world of the Stagea are soo much more friendly/helpful and prompt with your responses as opposed to the skyliners..

Seems to be a tiny bit of rust under one of the mirrors which is under the basecoat itself.

Seems to be a bit of exterior damage... small mark on the front bumper, drivers side a-pillar

Havent ruled out rust yet.. and how will i do the test for the uni in both driveshafts, what kind of things do i look out for as this is my first non rwd car im purchasing. Not to fussed about paint condition as im a painter by trade.

It looks like an RS4S to me, seats, gauges, RS4S sticker...(and rust under the mirrors :rolleyes: ).

It has a DAYZ sticker I believe it is possible that the front bar wasn't optioned?!?! It is equally possible this has been replaced for some reason (perhaps accident??)

The front bar is different from the one on Ms Wolvs.

Get someone to check it on FAST.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...