Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Honestly, save your money for a proper upgrade to a turbo once your license allows.

The cost versus power gain is pretty poor, I doubt there would be 5RWKWs gain, maybe a little bit more torque.

Spend your money making it handle better, enjoy winding roads, become a better driver, then upgrade to RB25det for more power down the track.

Years of wasting money on shit that cost plenty and made little to no difference has led me to this. Plenty of smarter people gave me the same advice; but I had to learn the hard way.:whistling:

Cheers, Dale.

Dude, NEVER underestimate the benefits of pulse scavenging. :thumbsup:

All the NA motors I have ever owned have copped a set of quality extractors as soon as I could afford it. The earler you get them on, the sooner they start paying for themselves, as you WILL see a definate improvement in fuel economy as well as a slight bump in power. Make sure you get a new cat fitted at the same time, and ask your exhaust place if they can flange the back end of your extractors and get the cat bolted straight to them, rather than have a piece of pipe between them (because it will help if you ever get caught out on an exhaust mod and have to do the gas test - the closer the cat is to the extractors, the quicker it heats up and provides positive test results) Its not always possible due to space constraints, but if it can be done it is really worth the little extra effort.

I am a pretty big fan of tri-Y's, and have used them to great effect, although mainly on larger, oversquare 6 cylinder engines such as the ford 4 litre, so get some advice from people more informed than I, on that score. Genie have always been exceptional, if a brand suggestion is needed too.

You can ALWAYS sell second hand extractors, so I dont think that any future "might +T it later" arguments should put you off.

Oh, and try and get the extractors either ceramic coated or at least thermo wrapped - makes a huge difference to thir performance, as well as under bonnet temps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...