Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think it has 3 inch exhaust on it i talked to tuner he said leave it for couple of weeks make sure everything runs smoothly then he said we can talk about more power but surely i can make more power than 410 hp safetly with that motor and turbos ?

So there's your answer. Its not a final, full power tune. Sounds like your tuner is being conservative to keep the risk of a blown motor/turbo failure/whatever to the minimum. If that's the case, then his opinion and approach should be respected.

3in is definitely too small for -5s and therefore sub-optimal. It would be worth getting a 3.5 or 4 in fitted before you take it back for the full power tune. Dont skimp on the cat.

1 page later the real truth is posted... *facepalm*

IF you were told it was deliberatly tuned that way, for a reason... What is the problem?

you know why its down on power a bit.What a waste of a thread.

Point to remember, just having a particular engine and turbo combo does not mean you will automatically make the power its capable of. So much depends on exhaust, intake, intercooler etc.

You are 100% right, that engine and turbo combo is capable of a lot more power, but if you do not have all the required supporting mods as suggested above then you will not make the power and the tuner can only tune with whatever is given to him. You really need to build a relationship with your tuner and tell him what you want, then he can do testing and find out what is limiting things.

the tuner didnt really tell me he said he didnt want to push it straight away anyways i understand now after i talked to him so it wasnt a waste of thread all this info is good to know thanks guys

but should i deff go bigger exhaust ? i will deff check to size is 3'' i have not measured it yet the intercooler is huge thickness wise and length must be a trust or something i dont know cant see a brand

Umm... Just to be clear ....

Are you attempting to pick a 10hp difference (or less than 3% difference) between two different dynos at two different workshops? Presumably on two different days?

Whatever the numerical difference, there were have to be a whole lot of change in the power delivery to pick it up using the "seat of the pants" dyno as well.

+1

With possibly two different batches of fuel. 10hp is sweet FA.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...