Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 128
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

other things available, pick will come as i pull it off ( the car that is)

boot with wing $150

gtr seats (these are perfect) $700

doors $100 each good condition

entrie gtr rear end $800 ( this is the entire rear cradle and everything in it)

gtr motor (still to be tested and compression tested)2k-3k dpending on condition

gear box $600

abs $50

side skirts $100

everything behind the dash including wiring $300

rear wiring loom $200

centre consol $40

door cards $50

front window $100

rear window $100

rear quater windows $50 each

full seatbelt setup $100

brake master cylinder $40

clutch master and slave sylinder $100

steering collum $100 included key locks

rear seat $80

parcel shelf $40

attessa pumps $50

yea engine crossmember is fine $50

update for now

nismo 260km/h dash $280

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9034.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9045.jpg

3 guage cluster $40

aircon $40

nismo gear knob $60

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9030-1.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9070.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9069.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9068.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9067.jpg

17X9 gtr offset rays lightweight rims (very light) $800

two with minor gutter rash

245/45/17 yoki DNA E-spec rubber 90% tread

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9035-1.jpg

needs a wash but will do that when i pull them off

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9041-1.jpg

rear bar $170 includes tail light

tail light 40 each

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9057.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9056.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9055.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9054.jpg

turbo back exhuast $500 includeds massive cat

velside exhuast?( thats what i was told)

cat back is stainless and in awesome nic (3,5 inches)

front pipe is tunned lenght hks ( seen better days)

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9054.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9048-1.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9049-1.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9050-1.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9053.jpg

brmbo front brakes $1100

includes calipers, new pads, two peice rotors lots of meat, brake lines and all bolts to install in your beast

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_9066.jpg

other things available, pick will come as i pull it off ( the car that is)

boot with wing $150

gtr seats (these are perfect) $700

doors $100 each good condition

entrie gtr rear end $800 ( this is the entire rear cradle and everything in it)

gtr motor (still to be tested and compression tested)2k-3k dpending on condition

gear box $600

abs $50

side skirts $100

everything behind the dash including wiring $300

rear wiring loom $200

centre consol $40

door cards $50

front window $100

rear window $100

rear quater windows $50 each

full seatbelt setup $100

brake master cylinder $40

clutch master and slave sylinder $100

steering collum $100 included key locks

rear seat $80

parcel shelf $40

attessa pumps $50

Black R32 Gtr front guards

No dents but have some scratches, overall good condition

left available $200

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8812.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8807.jpg

Tail light in black $50 each, excellent condition. Also have white and grey

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8795.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8876.jpg

hecktic plumback turbo smat $120

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8872.jpg

Front indicators $40 each

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8785.jpg

Apexi pod filter (almost new) $150

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG00050-20110307-1705.jpg

gtr front diff with welded on extension(you dont get the lsd centre just the casing) $200

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8840.jpg

stock front diff with diff centre $250

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8839.jpg

ohlins coil overs front and rear(r32 gtr) $400

rears good fronts questionable

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8838.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8837.jpg

tanabe suspension height and rebound adjustable need a clean but work well $400

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8836.jpg

Nardi steering wheel with boss kit $60

the right hand side is a tad warn in the pick

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8849-1.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8850-1.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8851-1.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8852.jpg

hks oil cooler $350

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8891.jpg

gtr key barrell $100 with key

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8884-1.jpg

jap fuel rail twin in one out alloy with fitings and fuel reg $300

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8883-1.jpg

fuel setup

044 pump

earls fitting

$300

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8881.jpg

fuel setup 2

040 pump

$250 has relay

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff9/fatzgtsr/IMG_8880-1.jpg

gtr front brakes with rotors lines and calipers $300

Other parts - pics not available

Complete aircon setup $150

Front drive shafts $100 each

ABS unit $120

Front Gtr hubs $100

Lower control arms $50

R32 Gtr doors $100 each (white) non side intrusion

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...