Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My friend has got this problem with his R34 Grey skyline that has a very low rear spoiler. He wants the spoiler a good few cms higher so it stands out more. Does anyone know if this is actually possible without having to buy a new spoiler?

If worse comes to worse how much would it take to buy and fit a new spoiler onto the skyline?

Here is a picture of how low the spoiler is:

post-82259-0-54575900-1299497248_thumb.png

Edited by Grey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356451-low-spoiler-problem/
Share on other sites

Picture looks like a factory sedan spoiler - you could just replace it with a coupe spoiler?

They usually go for $150-200, depending ... You'd then need to get it painted obviously - no idea on cost, you'd need to talk to a panel beater..

Yeah, that looks like a sedan spoiler, which sits lower than the coupe.

I can think of 2 reasons why people would change it.

1-personally taste

2-lower so it doesn't block drivers rear vision too much

The other thing that's worth noting is that the end-bits on the sedan spoiler are not as large as on the coupe spoiler, so even if you did raise it, it wouldn't quite 'look right'.

I've attached some comparison pictures of my R34 sedan where I replaced my sedan spoiler with a coupe spoiler, so you can see the differences:

20091012_wing-comparison1_thumb.jpg

20091012_wing-comparison2_thumb.jpg

Click for larger images.

Hopefully that will clarify the differences. As has already been mentioned - people like to be different, so it wouldn't surprise me if that is a sedan wing on a coupe. It's a fairly straight forward swap to go between them too, so it should be nice and easy to go back to putting a coupe wing back on.

The only way I can think of - off-hand - to raise it would be to use the nismo wing stays, which were designed for the coupe wing. Not sure if they'd fit the sedan wing. This would be a pretty expensive option, and would also require painting:

Image1.jpg

Nismo wing stays are heaps expensive. I was lucky to find a set for $100 posted lol.

I used the stays without the bottoms bits, looks pretty good.

But I think your best option would be finding a coupe spoiler, I saw one that's silver for sale few weeks ago for $100, in Melb.

Also, I'd be interested to see a side on pic of the sedan spoiler on coupe :D

img0381l.jpg

Okay, so I have found a coupe spoiler that was originally made for a grey r34 GTT coupe, the owner took it off and is selling it to me, now I just want to know how easy it is to remove the low spoiler and refit it with the new GTT spoiler that I bought, will it take welding? Glue? Sticky tape? Holes that don't match? Screws that don't match? Rainy day leaks?

Okay, so I have found a coupe spoiler that was originally made for a grey r34 GTT coupe, the owner took it off and is selling it to me, now I just want to know how easy it is to remove the low spoiler and refit it with the new GTT spoiler that I bought, will it take welding? Glue? Sticky tape? Holes that don't match? Screws that don't match? Rainy day leaks?

With regards the color - check the paint code under the bonnet - should list one of something like KV2, KR4, etc. If you're trying to buy the right color one, you want to make sure the color codes match.

To remove the spoiler, pop the boot, undo all of the clips on the underside holding the boot-lining in-place. You just need to twist to undo, then pull them off. Once the boot-lining is off, you'll be able to see up to the nuts holding the spoiler on. There should be two bolts on each side - I think they're 10 or 12mm. You'll probably need a fairly small smaller and extension to get in there.

Once these are off, it depends how the last owner fitted the spoiler; likely you'll need to use something like fishing line to cut the double-sided tape or whatever material they've used to hold the spoiler on and protect the paintwork.

With regards to the holes, the rear bolt hole is the same but the front bolt is in a slightly different position between the coupe and sedan. However, since you a coupe it's possible that it had a coupe spoiler on at all (than no spoiler at all) and if you're lucky there may still be the original holes there.

From there, it should be a simple matter of putting the new spoiler with something like automotive double-sided tape to protect the paintwork, and then bolting it on from behind - the nuts from the spoilers are the same size. Then you can just put the boot-lining back on and voila - you're done.

When I swapped my sedan spoiler for a coupe spoiler on my sedan I haven't had any leaks or dramas, so if you do it right you should be fine. If you're worried, talk to a panel beater maybe?

Good luck with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...