Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Ive searched around on this forum but could only really find answers for upgrades on stock gtst.

I just found out the Arc intercooler i ordered is no longer available due to them going bankrupt so now i want to pick out the best intercooler for my aplication.

The motor is a built 2.6l running a Hks T51Kai ( Looking at building a 26/30 in the near future). What does everyone recommend?

Cheers for your advice,

Edited by DTSNR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356479-best-intercooler-built-32/
Share on other sites

Something 100mm (4") thick at minimum and a good jap brand.

I dont think anyone will be able to say what the best cooler is realistically... As long as it fits the bill.

PWR as stated above are good yet a local brand.. I would rather a Jap branded item (such as ARC) for known and reliable quality.

Something 100mm (4") thick at minimum and a good jap brand.

I dont think anyone will be able to say what the best cooler is realistically... As long as it fits the bill.

PWR as stated above are good yet a local brand.. I would rather a Jap branded item (such as ARC) for known and reliable quality.

the thing with a high mount u need custom pipework. u dont need the pipework that costs an extra $500 that will come with an hks cooler kit. a plazmaman/pwr is more what u need. pwr is 81mm btw, and flows sht loads ;)

Best for your application ? What is that ?

Also, what is your typical ambient air temps ?

Do you still have aircon in the car?

How much power?

These relate to airflow to your radiator and what kind of core is optimal for your application.

A I/C that flows well is one thing, but doesn't mean it cools well.

It's a fine balance between flow & cooling.

I think a 0.5-1psi drop seems to be the norm for the reasonable cooling items.

1-1.5psi seems to be better cooling but obviously less flow. Comes down to what you want.

And something without a drop can't be mashing the air up too much you'd think.

Cheers for the your help so far guys.

Best for your application ? What is that ?

Also, what is your typical ambient air temps ?

Do you still have aircon in the car?

How much power?

These relate to airflow to your radiator and what kind of core is optimal for your application.

The car will be driven on weekends and down the quater mile. It no longer runs aircon and im yet to run the car with this setup so im abit unsure to what power it's going to make but hopefully 600+hp in the future. I was looking at the nismo intercooler but was unsure if there would be something better out there for around that price.There is a 140mm Arc cooler in the forsale threads but havent had a reply yet also will this be abit on the big side?

Edited by DTSNR32

And ambient air temps?

Are you sure there will be no in traffic driving. If the car is drag only, its hard to go past NXTIME's Trust intercooler for $1700. The nismo cores are another $700 on this.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/325811-trustgreddy-drag-intercooler-150mm-new/page__p__5628306__hl__drag+intercooler__fromsearch__1#entry5628306

Nismo is definatly more streetable as it wont interfere with radiator airflow as much as a drag(super thick) core will. Nismo parts are unbeatable for fitment and quality too. They come with all the gaskets, special bolts and new air temp sensor etc, all in Nissam factory part boxes. Without aircon you may get away with a drag core on the street though as well, you just have to be prepared to chop the hell out of your front bar to make it fit.

And ambient air temps?

Are you sure there will be no in traffic driving. If the car is drag only, its hard to go past NXTIME's Trust intercooler for $1700. The nismo cores are another $700 on this.

http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry5628306

Nismo is definatly more streetable as it wont interfere with radiator airflow as much as a drag(super thick) core will. Nismo parts are unbeatable for fitment and quality too. They come with all the gaskets, special bolts and new air temp sensor etc, all in Nissam factory part boxes. Without aircon you may get away with a drag core on the street though as well, you just have to be prepared to chop the hell out of your front bar to make it fit.

Ambient air temps of South Perth id say mid/high 20s in summer and in winter around 14-15 degrees. I have been stopped before in traffic but only coming and going to workshops. It also runs a 55mm PWR x-flow radiator with thermo fan. The Nismo core is around 2200 from Nengun/Perfect run.

Cheers

Ambient air temps of South Perth id say mid/high 20s in summer and in winter around 14-15 degrees. I have been stopped before in traffic but only coming and going to workshops. It also runs a 55mm PWR x-flow radiator with thermo fan. The Nismo core is around 2200 from Nengun/Perfect run.

Cheers

by south perth do you esperence?? mid/high 20's in summer ?? we've just had the first couple of days below mid/high 30's, if not 40's in months ,, I went to the drags a few weeks ago and at 7pm it was 32 degrees with a track temp of 45..?

by south perth do you esperence?? mid/high 20's in summer ?? we've just had the first couple of days below mid/high 30's, if not 40's in months ,, I went to the drags a few weeks ago and at 7pm it was 32 degrees with a track temp of 45..?

Im talking about the average ambient temp not the max temps seen. If you look at the average over a day and night its lower than you think, plus i drive it mostly during the night.

Sounds like a nice place to live. Im getting sick of being washed away or melted/burnt to a crisp in our 35 degree+ 90+% humidity. Cooling struggles on a days like that, but I think you'll probably get away with the drag core in your moderate temps and with no aircon condensor restricting radiator airflow.

Another thought... the T51Kai is a bit big for 600hp. A T04z would make that power with less lag. The monster intercooler is going to add some lag too. Though if its drag only then anti-lag solves these problems.

Both are too big for 600hp - a GT35 will make that and more.

On E85 you mean?

*Enter Fineline*

600HP/450KW implies 400rwkw, we are not yanks and we do not get those numbers with ease on these turbos. I like to think 350rwkw is more realistic, if you are lucky.

T04Z territory for sure IMHO.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...