Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Take the pad out, trace the shape on a piece of paper, then take it into the shop and compare your tracing to the diagrams in the listing.

(I wouldn't be surprised if it is the same as the others.)

apparently bendix dont make pads for a 33 gtr, or a 34 dont think, just a 32 non vpsec (non brembos I guess)

nissan factory pads are about $800 for the fronts and $1200ish for the rear, so I gotta find an alternative :)

cheapest ive been able to find so far is $200 for the front and $500 for the rears from a jap importer

they dont do the fronts....but the rears are the same as a BMW, or audi ...not sure which one....its some euro shitbox anyway...but dont buy them...i would suggest getting original ones or project U or something japanese....the other ones are crap

I found the bendix ultimates I had on the rex very dusty, they also tended to be squealy and non grippy when cold. I changed them with Lucas pads which seem to be quite good. They were cheaper than ultimates too, $120 a pair for fronts.

Can't help you out with part numbers though. It's not easy with anything later than r31 as many local stockists don't keep track of grey imports.

Edit - actually, R33 rear calipers are identicle to Subaru WRX MY01-MY04 rear calipers. That may help.

twinspot.jpg

r33ba.jpg

Cheers

Joey

Yeah I rang Bendix yesterdat after brake pads (ive got a 32 GTR non vspec but with R33 Brembo callipers on the front) and was told they dont make any pads for any sort of Brembo calliper... interesting.

Im looking at EBC Greenstuff at $200 for the front and $90 for the rear (keep in mind ive still got the stock R32 GTR rear callipers).

Try racebrakes, www.racebrakes.com.au and enquire about their RB74 pads, im going to call them today. A friend just fitted them in his GTiR and claims no matter how hard he pushes the car and rides the brakes, the hotter they get, the better they keep getting (and we went for a pretty hard drive through the mountains on the weekend).

Try racebrakes, www.racebrakes.com.au and enquire about their RB74 pads, im going to call them today. A friend just fitted them in his GTiR and claims no matter how hard he pushes the car and rides the brakes, the hotter they get, the better they keep getting (and we went for a pretty hard drive through the mountains on the weekend).
Yup I can vouch for this, the hotter they get the more they beg to be used, the guys at RaceBrakes are tops too :D Don't forget to mention that you are part of 'SAU' :)

Im with mist

Bendix are Ok for what they are - a budget performance pad... but nowhere near suitable enough for a GTR.

Look at alternatives such as Ferrodo, Endless or Green stuff.

Yes they cost more - but to many people are willing to spend mega dollas to make the car go fast - but tight wad on stopping quality.

Do your self a favour and give the bendix a miss.

Daniel

Its great if they keep getting better.. but what are the RB74s like when they're cold?

There is much discussion relating to these pads incl Bendix, RB74's, Green Stuff etc...will have to find the link but I am sure someone will beat me to it...(Looks for the any key...)

MADGT4 : Did u buy ur car from a dealer / importer? If u did, they probably fitted the cheapest (read:nastiest) pads they could find for compliancing, therefore the Bendix Ultimates will seem like a good upgrade. I went down that path too. Then I tried some real 'performance' brake pads (Endless for me) and the difference is night and day. Stopping is more important than going fast, no? :)

Its great if they keep getting better.. but what are the RB74s like when they're cold?

I don't mind them at all. They are "pretty good" when cold, and they only get better and better as they warm up. This is very subjective though, you might find they're as bad as the Ultimates. But with mine they seem to be perfectly fine by the time I get to the end of my street (braking for my driveway and the street corner).

Personally, I think the RB74's are the best bang for buck street pad out there, period. Yes the Ultimates are cheaper and if you don't take it to the track you may never get them to fade, but the amount of extra time you'll spend cleaning will quickly decrease their value.

Yes the RB74's get dusty, eventually, but so does any high performance pad. The difference is that the RB's get about the same amount of dust in 1000km as the Ultimates get in 100.

Personally, I think the RB74's are the best bang for buck street pad out there, period. Yes the Ultimates are cheaper and if you don't take it to the track you may never get them to fade, but the amount of extra time you'll spend cleaning will quickly decrease their value.

Couldn't have put it better myself. I've been using RB74's on DBA4000 Slotted Rotors for about 8mths now and highly recommend them.

Private and i dunno wot was on them at that time but yeah i will admit Bendix are awesome...

BUT like i said the dust is just really gettin to me...

I Clean my mags more than my car!

Was thinking about painting my mags black it is gettin that bad

  • 9 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
    • I get you, we’ll see I’m aiming for 200ish kw now and hopefully 300rwkw down the line after some upgrades maybe like headstuds, E85 flex fuel etc  so trying to make it final for that now, I can get a GTT airbox for $280 so it’s not too bad but not sure if there’s better ways to spend that money. I seen online they say pod filter which isn’t enclosed isn’t good especially for a plus T.      hard to say what to do
    • Meh. How much power can you make from a +T anyway? I wouldn't have though it would be enough to challenge the airbox. It's not as if it's tiny compared with the turbo one. As to putting a pod in a stock airbox .... it's not the filter element that would be restrictive. It would be the air inlet to the box that would be the narrow point, which you could open up regardless of what element was inside. On my R32 I opened up the sort of triangular opening in the bottom front corner of the box, deformed (heated, moulded) some 4" stormwater pipe to fit to that opening and punched a 4" hole down through the inner guard to the spot where the stock intercooler used to be. This was purely in the search for a cold intake, but you could do something similar if you need to open up the inlet side of it. The AFM tube size is the same for both NA and turbo, so the outlet from the airbox is same same anyway. If you're going to do the right thing, then an aftermarket ECU won't care about the AFM (ie, you can get rid of it). But even if it was still there, people pull >300rwkW through them all day, and I suspect you won't be going there.
    • R34 RB25de Neo by the way ^ 
×
×
  • Create New...