Jump to content
SAU Community

Water Sloshing Sound In Front Of Dashboard

greenpool

By greenpool,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

greenpool Explorer

greenpool

Posted
Posted

Hey, i've got a 2003 skyline v35. a couple of months back when it was about 40 degrees the coolent started to boil and spurted out which created havoc with the air con. ever since every now and a again when i start the car i hear this

water sloshing sound in front of the dashboard. anybody know why this happens? or experienced this before?

any advice on what i should do?

thanks a lot.

greenpool Explorer

greenpool

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Is it still losing coolant? Sounds like maybe the heater box is leaking coolant into the ducting.

Can u smell coolant with the heater or aircon on?

hey i haven't really tested it. what is it meant to smell like? i'll try it and get back to you.

i called nissan service center and they said they won't look at it cos its an import, something about how they're computers won't sync with mine :(

i called my dealer skyimports in melbourne and they said they'll have a look on tuesday.

is it still ok to drive it around? how severe is the problem? i clearly dunno much about this.

thanks a lot btw.

greenpool Explorer

greenpool

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey i haven't really tested it. what is it meant to smell like? i'll try it and get back to you.

i called nissan service center and they said they won't look at it cos its an import, something about how they're computers won't sync with mine :(

i called my dealer skyimports in melbourne and they said they'll have a look on tuesday.

is it still ok to drive it around? how severe is the problem? i clearly dunno much about this.

thanks a lot btw.

the air con doesn't smell or anything but i had a look at the coolent and its almost empty...

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

... what is it meant to smell like?

^ ^ ^ a bit like 34 minute-old ejaculant on floor of passenger footwell :P

see if coolant is leaking behind glove box where heater core might be

shut off heater

refill coolant before driving and take spare water with you whilst driving until it's attended to on tuesday

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

if you arent leaking water, it means you havent bled your coolant system properly. the sound you're hearing is the water moving around in the air gaps inside the heater core. bleed your coolant properly and it should go away.

greenpool Explorer

greenpool

Posted
  • Author
Posted

if you arent leaking water, it means you havent bled your coolant system properly. the sound you're hearing is the water moving around in the air gaps inside the heater core. bleed your coolant properly and it should go away.

hey thanks, yup there's nothing leaking atm.

i'm new to all this. is bleeding the coolant easy to do? what does it involve doing?

thanks a lot.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

you need to get all of the air out of your coolant system. it involves filling up your radiator, letting the car get to operating temperature and revving the engine to about 3000rpm every now and then while still keeping the coolant topped up. you need to keep an eye on the temperature, making sure it doesnt overheat.

you need to be doing all of this while the heater is on full heat @ full fan speed. when it seems like its not releasing any more air, close the radiator cap, let it idle for a little while then crack the bleeder nut which is at the highest point of the cooling system.

if its your first attempt i suggest searching 'how to bleed cooling system'. or get it to a mechanic to sort out.

this has the potential of doing a bit of damage if temps get too high so be careful and dont be afraid to turn the car off if you feel like the temperature is getting too hot.

greenpool Explorer

greenpool

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

you need to get all of the air out of your coolant system. it involves filling up your radiator, letting the car get to operating temperature and revving the engine to about 3000rpm every now and then while still keeping the coolant topped up. you need to keep an eye on the temperature, making sure it doesnt overheat.

you need to be doing all of this while the heater is on full heat @ full fan speed. when it seems like its not releasing any more air, close the radiator cap, let it idle for a little while then crack the bleeder nut which is at the highest point of the cooling system.

if its your first attempt i suggest searching 'how to bleed cooling system'. or get it to a mechanic to sort out.

this has the potential of doing a bit of damage if temps get too high so be careful and dont be afraid to turn the car off if you feel like the temperature is getting too hot.

hey thanks for all that info.

i did go see a mechanic today. we tried running the heater on to verify the sloshing sound but nothing happened. because its intermittent and the mechanic couldn't hear it, he asked me to come

back if the coolant runs low (?). i mentioned bleeding the coolant but he said that he can't confirm anything at this point.

would you recommend getting a another mechanic to check it out?

thanks!

Edited by greenpool
180JDM Community Regular

180JDM

Posted
Posted (edited)

Need to get the air bubbles out of the coolant mate.....happened to me with my old 180sx when I installed a new PWR radiator.

I bleed the system but it still had bubbles in the coolant, just keep bleeding it over the next couple of drives and should go away.

Also I squeezed the radiator hoses to push the air bubbles out which helps.....and you need to get the water hot enough to open the thermostat.

I normally cut a 2lite bottle in half and tape it to the top of the radiator so the water level is higher than the engine which helps push the water down.

Edited by 180JDM
SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

get any brand but make sure its concentrated or get a 50/50 blend. some do a 30/70 on non turbo cars (30 coolant/70 water). its up to you which one you go for - its just an anti-boil/freeze additive.

you'll find that the concentrates are a little cheaper than the pre-mixed stuff.

greenpool Explorer

greenpool

Posted
  • Author
Posted

another quick question.

i've currently got the coolant tank filled with water. above the max cos i didn't know any better lol.

when i've got the coolant, can i mix it with the water? OR wait till the water evaporates and then fill it with coolant?

thanks a lot for ya replies.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

you dont need to put anything in the reservoir tank. if its over-filled then it will just drain if your fuel cap ever releases any pressure. its not something you need to fill up.

just concentrate on putting coolant into your radiator.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...