Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They haven't seen any track days :) hardly even been driven on.. I sold the wheels i was using these for so no longer need them, i would keep them for my track car te37's but that build is not likely to be finished until end of the year now so I'd rather sell and use the cash now.

Pics attached... like i said they are practically new, still have the little rubber things on them :laugh: Price is firm at $1700.

post-10650-0-60485800-1299911033_thumb.jpg

post-10650-0-28842200-1299911076_thumb.jpg

post-10650-0-01641400-1299911254_thumb.jpg

there's a date on them?? where abouts? i'll have to check next time i get a chance to go down to the shop

they are not at all hard if that's what you want to know - still nice and soft/sticky

How does the date (of manufacture I suppose) affect the useability of the tyres? Do the tyres go off?

I am thinking of using semi tyres for my daily. Is that a good idea? especially taking into account my car only gets driven once a week maybe.

BTW, good price, as I got quoted $540 per tyre from Traction tyres.

How does the date (of manufacture I suppose) affect the useability of the tyres? Do the tyres go off?

I am thinking of using semi tyres for my daily. Is that a good idea? especially taking into account my car only gets driven once a week maybe.

BTW, good price, as I got quoted $540 per tyre from Traction tyres.

Matt,

I would personally not use semi comps for a street/daily driven car. They're noisy, pick up all loose stones and blasts them into your inner guards, annoying to say the least. Also you won't get the mileage out of them compared to a competent street tyre. I'd say go for some RE11's or AD08's, reasonable grip and very quiet...

Sorry for the hijack, good luck with the sale....

If any tyre is left exposed to the weather over time they can harden and will no longer be safely usable. With semi's, you lose the benefit of the high grip levels. I will check the date when I get a chance to go to the workshop next week, but I know they are still good :) so i don't mind either way, if they don't sell I will be keeping them to use myself.

Matt - they wouldn't last long if you do a lot of street driving on them, but if you want plenty grip and only drive it one or 2 days a week then could be an option. Of course you have to accept the tyre noise and stones flicking up, tram lining etc.

I'm driving my daily around on RE55's but that's because i'm too lazy to change wheels before and after a track day and i don't drive much at all anyway, only on weekends mainly.

ok so I checked the date and they are manufactures in week 50 (December) 2008. If anyone's interested in them drop me an email... no rush to sell, i'll just use them myself if i don't get a reasonable price for them.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...