Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, starting to strip my 32 2 door since it is now predominantly track orientated, so I have the following parts available.

A/C compressor with bracket $90

A/C condenser $80

All lines and evaporator $offers

Rear seats in very good condition $50

Roof lining (for sunroof vehicle) good condition bar dirty hand prints which should clean off $50

Rear seat belts excellent condition $30 each

Rear "door cards" (don't know what to call them, it's a 2 door) good condition except the fabric lining needs to be reattached. $30 each

Boot lining, average condition, some tears $10

Boot carpet and cardboard base (sunk in center) $10

Rear parcel shelf (has holes for 6x9" speakers, apart from that excellent condition) $10

Should also have any other little bits from the rear interior so let me know if you need anything not listed. Only have a picture of the air con bits for now. Located in Aspendale, Melbourne

post-32498-0-20199100-1300013940_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357224-r32-ac-setup-and-interior-bits/
Share on other sites

Photos and some new stuff:

Rear seats $50

post-32498-0-94030500-1300063084_thumb.jpg

Roof lining $50

post-32498-0-20762900-1300063060_thumb.jpg

Rear "door cards" $30 each

post-32498-0-28802500-1300063102_thumb.jpg post-32498-0-07710500-1300063115_thumb.jpg

Boot lining $10

post-32498-0-02342200-1300062998_thumb.jpg

Boot carpet $10

post-32498-0-23299700-1300063011_thumb.jpg

Rear parcel shelf $10

post-32498-0-79410100-1300063033_thumb.jpg

B/C pillar trim $20 each

post-32498-0-29463200-1300062974_thumb.jpg

Boot/cabin divider $20

post-32498-0-86797900-1300062985_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Josh. Just a heads up. If you plan on running a surge tank in the future don't sell the boot/cabin divider coz scruitineers won't allow it. (same cabin space)

Hey Josh. Just a heads up. If you plan on running a surge tank in the future don't sell the boot/cabin divider coz scruitineers won't allow it. (same cabin space)

Thanks for the heads up Russell, boot/cabin divider no longer for sale :)

Long weekend price drops:

A/C compressor with bracket $70

A/C condenser $60

All lines and evaporator $offers

Rear seats in very good condition $40

Roof lining (for sunroof vehicle)$40

Rear seat belts excellent condition $30 each

Rear "door cards" (don't know what to call them, it's a 2 door) good condition except the fabric lining needs to be reattached. $20 each

Boot lining, average condition, some tears $Free

Boot cardboard base (sunk in center) $Free

Rear parcel shelf (has holes for 6x9" speakers, apart from that excellent condition) $10

B/C pillar trim Drivers side $20 each

  • 3 weeks later...

Want this stuff gone, will take *almost* any offer. Find a cheaper price and I will beat it by 10%! :P

P.s. For anyone that noticed, yes this is a copy and paste bump from my other thread.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

A/C compressor, lines, rear seat, rear "door" cards, boot trim all sold. List update:

A/C condenser $60

Roof lining (for sunroof vehicle)$40

Rear seat belts excellent condition $30 each

Boot cardboard base (sunk in center) $Free

Rear parcel shelf (has holes for 6x9" speakers, apart from that excellent condition) $10

B/C pillar trim Drivers side (cracked at b/c intersection, sits alright when fitted) $10

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...