Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thinking about putting a ca18 non turbo in my skyline. do you think it would be a good conversion? i also want it to be 4wd. just wondering if i could get an adapter plate to use an rb26 box with it.

any info appreciated

Well, the gearbox shouldn't be a problem. The sump will have to be reduced in length due to the swap from 6 cylinder to 4 cylinder. It's easy if you lock the transfer to make it constant 4wd. If you want to retain the ATTESSA system, it will be quite expensive. I would say buy a VL and be done with it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357547-ca18-in-r32/#findComment-5714990
Share on other sites

Well, the gearbox shouldn't be a problem. The sump will have to be reduced in length due to the swap from 6 cylinder to 4 cylinder. It's easy if you lock the transfer to make it constant 4wd. If you want to retain the ATTESSA system, it will be quite expensive. I would say buy a VL and be done with it

hmmm its going to be a hard choice which direction to go with. but for the type of performance i want from the car it seems the only way to go.

also what kind of head work will i need to carry out in order for the 1.8 to spool a gt42 to full boost by 3500 rpm. i want maximum hp with minimal lag

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357547-ca18-in-r32/#findComment-5715007
Share on other sites

hmmm its going to be a hard choice which direction to go with. but for the type of performance i want from the car it seems the only way to go.

also what kind of head work will i need to carry out in order for the 1.8 to spool a gt42 to full boost by 3500 rpm. i want maximum hp with minimal lag

3500 hmm, dunno about that but the boys at EFI put a GT42R on a CA and it made 46psi by about 5500 and 52psi at about 5600rpm.

It only made 516rwhp but it had an unopened non turbo bottem end so they didn't want to push it too hard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357547-ca18-in-r32/#findComment-5715045
Share on other sites

y not ditch the 4wd system all together and go wild..rig it up with fwd, ur 600hp ca monster will be a street weapon

i could go completely different and run it to the front drivers side wheel and the rear passenger side wheel for even diagonal distribution to front and rear

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357547-ca18-in-r32/#findComment-5715166
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...