Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I need a new clutch to support the mods I'm going to be getting. There are too many damn options.

1) Something from Jim Berry $???

2) Something from Direct Clutch $???

3) ORC single clutch + flywheel $1400

4) Exedy Extra Heavy Duty Clutch $660

The exedy is the cheapest coming it at $660 and should support my power needs. The ORC single clutch is suitable for race/track and should be sufficient, also has a suitable flywheel! Jim Berry and Direct Clutches look VERY reputable and awesome but I cant find a damn price anywhere. DC do clutch rebuilds so getting my old exedy cushioned heavy duty rebuilt by them is also an option.

What should I do guys? Also I heard its not how much power the engine produces, its the amount of torque it makes which determines slip if the clutch will hold. Power spins it faster, torque pushes it harder. I'm expecting around 500 - 600nm torque in the end but realistically about 450 - 470nm.

Also I have no idea of the condition of my current flywheel. Do I need to change it or can I stick with it? What about clutch pedal? Mine already creaks. I can get a Nismo one or get my other one from my other car but I have no idea how to pull it out. Is there a DIY anywhere about fitting/removing the clutch pedal?

Also have a brand new clutch master incase this one goes bye bye lol.

To sum up what I'm asking, which clutch should I get? What are you all running? How much should I be looking at if I go JB or DC? How much would I be looking at for installation? DIY able?(Ive pulled a box out before, just never put one in or aligned/fitted a clutch).

Cheers guys!

i got mine form here

K B Clutch Engineering

143 Coreen Ave, Penrith, NSW 2750

Outer West Sydney, Western Sydneyp: 02 47321692

basically a exedy 5 puk but with carbonic pads and 4000 pound clamp load - $365 including postage to ACT

my 31 (track car only) has around 600nm at the bags, no slip at all

Speak to Keith, he's the man.

James

edit

both keith and jim had recommended me single plate clutches, and both said the multi's are for posers

Your flywheel should be fine, but you'll need to have it machined/faced and as for the creak, its probably just the pivot point for the clutch fork that needs greasing

Woah that's an awesome price for a beefy clutch. And it's in sydney so not far at all! I've heard of these guys too. I wonder if they do installations. I can go there today and see what's what.

I've got two noises one squeak from my pivot in the box and the other one in the cabin only when first engaging the pedal. Basically if I press the pedal to the floor then slowly up and down the sound only comes in the first cm or two of play.

Thanks for bringing up this guys shop, I hated the fact all other places were intertate.

Edited by SargeRX8

Spoke with Keith from KB and he gave me a run down on what I should get. Told him what I needed and he said he will build me a custom clutch for my car which is very streetable for $380! Wow. Like seriously wow. Should be ready in a week!

I plan to run 280/310rwkw with about 470/50b torque. keith said the clutch I'm getting is the last single plate option he could offer and said that this clutch and pressure plate combo will be perfect and very street drivable. Man seriously, a standard exedy cost almost just as much!

I've got 520Nm and the Sports Single Exedy R32 GTR holds fine.

Torque is easier to estimate than power. Your centi-litre in capacity x pressure (in absolute bar).

2.5L engine = 250 cL

1 bar boost = 2 bar absolute

250 x 2 = 500Nm (a good estimate for all mildly tuned cars*)

*well except the latest Ferrari engines, but it appears they are lying anyway about the production engine torque ratings. ;)

Edited by simpletool

I know it's too late now and was priced way more than what you ended up buying but the ORC singles are a fantastic clutch. they are built like a twin plate and can be upgraded to a twin in future if needed. they are very easy to use, easy to rebuild and take a serious pounding. very high quality and nice to use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...