Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I need a new clutch to support the mods I'm going to be getting. There are too many damn options.

1) Something from Jim Berry $???

2) Something from Direct Clutch $???

3) ORC single clutch + flywheel $1400

4) Exedy Extra Heavy Duty Clutch $660

The exedy is the cheapest coming it at $660 and should support my power needs. The ORC single clutch is suitable for race/track and should be sufficient, also has a suitable flywheel! Jim Berry and Direct Clutches look VERY reputable and awesome but I cant find a damn price anywhere. DC do clutch rebuilds so getting my old exedy cushioned heavy duty rebuilt by them is also an option.

What should I do guys? Also I heard its not how much power the engine produces, its the amount of torque it makes which determines slip if the clutch will hold. Power spins it faster, torque pushes it harder. I'm expecting around 500 - 600nm torque in the end but realistically about 450 - 470nm.

Also I have no idea of the condition of my current flywheel. Do I need to change it or can I stick with it? What about clutch pedal? Mine already creaks. I can get a Nismo one or get my other one from my other car but I have no idea how to pull it out. Is there a DIY anywhere about fitting/removing the clutch pedal?

Also have a brand new clutch master incase this one goes bye bye lol.

To sum up what I'm asking, which clutch should I get? What are you all running? How much should I be looking at if I go JB or DC? How much would I be looking at for installation? DIY able?(Ive pulled a box out before, just never put one in or aligned/fitted a clutch).

Cheers guys!

i got mine form here

K B Clutch Engineering

143 Coreen Ave, Penrith, NSW 2750

Outer West Sydney, Western Sydneyp: 02 47321692

basically a exedy 5 puk but with carbonic pads and 4000 pound clamp load - $365 including postage to ACT

my 31 (track car only) has around 600nm at the bags, no slip at all

Speak to Keith, he's the man.

James

edit

both keith and jim had recommended me single plate clutches, and both said the multi's are for posers

Your flywheel should be fine, but you'll need to have it machined/faced and as for the creak, its probably just the pivot point for the clutch fork that needs greasing

Woah that's an awesome price for a beefy clutch. And it's in sydney so not far at all! I've heard of these guys too. I wonder if they do installations. I can go there today and see what's what.

I've got two noises one squeak from my pivot in the box and the other one in the cabin only when first engaging the pedal. Basically if I press the pedal to the floor then slowly up and down the sound only comes in the first cm or two of play.

Thanks for bringing up this guys shop, I hated the fact all other places were intertate.

Edited by SargeRX8

Spoke with Keith from KB and he gave me a run down on what I should get. Told him what I needed and he said he will build me a custom clutch for my car which is very streetable for $380! Wow. Like seriously wow. Should be ready in a week!

I plan to run 280/310rwkw with about 470/50b torque. keith said the clutch I'm getting is the last single plate option he could offer and said that this clutch and pressure plate combo will be perfect and very street drivable. Man seriously, a standard exedy cost almost just as much!

I've got 520Nm and the Sports Single Exedy R32 GTR holds fine.

Torque is easier to estimate than power. Your centi-litre in capacity x pressure (in absolute bar).

2.5L engine = 250 cL

1 bar boost = 2 bar absolute

250 x 2 = 500Nm (a good estimate for all mildly tuned cars*)

*well except the latest Ferrari engines, but it appears they are lying anyway about the production engine torque ratings. ;)

Edited by simpletool

I know it's too late now and was priced way more than what you ended up buying but the ORC singles are a fantastic clutch. they are built like a twin plate and can be upgraded to a twin in future if needed. they are very easy to use, easy to rebuild and take a serious pounding. very high quality and nice to use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...