Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Since i just finished this, thought id show it to the SAU world.

Before i start few PLUGS :ph34r::

- Bob Romano Motorsport (tuning and mechanical)

- Extreme Custom Engineering (for all your fabrication needs)

- Bossman Wholesale Tyres (tires, fittings, wheel alignments)

- Freeworks (importing of jap parts)

Background Check:

Names Dave (21), worked my butt-hole off to build this so i hope you like it.

I set out to build a 32 completely different to any I've seen, everything had to be done at home. Really wanted to show people whats possible and to hope they give it ago instead of paying others.

The day i got the car:

Drove just over the boarder in 2007 or 2008 (NSW) to purchase what i thought was the cheapest to date 32 I've seen.

post-a194076-r32-sel2.jpg

post-a194079-r32-sell.jpg

Sale add consisted of:

Complete rolling 1993 r32 gtst, without motor or box in the car

After further inspections and haggling over one of the cleanest chassis i've seen we loaded it up and headed home.

Blueprint to date:

Chassis:

- Started out, stripped entire car to bare metal

- Stitch welded every seam, then re-sealed

- Re-did the whole under body back to bare metal then re-body deadened

- Removed all sound deadening

- Re-painted entire car in DG black

- etc...

Styling:

- Cst Hyper Zero Fr: 17x9+35 (+10 effective) Re: 17x9.5+15

- Pumped and shaved gtst guards

- Standard skirts / Pods

- GTR FRP front bar

- GTR Bonnet w. aerocatch latches

- Clear Indicators

- Non-projector Headlights w. Clear Lenses

- Mirrors (to be craftsquare)

Motor / Trans / Running Gear:

- Self Built S2 Rb25det sitting 40mm lower and 30mm backwards

- Blasted block (resprayed black)

- Freshly resembled (factory)

- Self ported head (72hours worth)

- Lapped valves w. new stem seals

- Modified cooling lines

- Garrett GT3076r

- Self Port matched Hks Low mounted Log Manifold

- Self Port matched Freddy Plenum

- Denso Jeccs 555cc Injectors

- Modified Q45 TB

- Nismo Fuel Reg

- Catch can & Coolant Swirl-Pot

- Oil / PS fluid Coolers

- Turbosmart Ultra-Gate w. Screamer & Stealth BOV

- Self made 3" Dump-Pipe to Modified 3" Gktech front pipe to highflow cat to Kakimoto Regu06&R Cat Back

- Rb25 Box

- NPC lightened HD flywheel

- Exedy 5puk Button Clutch

- Braided clutch line with modified throw out assembly for lighter clutch feel

- Single Piece Tail-shaft

- Cooling-pro Alloy Rad (soon to be PWR)

- HDI intercooler core (soon to be PWR)

The brains behind ^^^:

- Haltech PS2000 (oil/water/fuel sensors, 02 wideband, ls1 coilpacks behind dash)

- Racepak IQ3

- Currently at 355rwhp on 14psi tuned by Chris Romano

Front / Rear End:

- 8/6kg Isc Coilovers

- Superpro bushes throughout

- CBC Bearings throughout

- Front ISC Castor Arms

- Silkroads Adjustable Camber Arms

- PoweredByMax Steering Knuckles w. lengthen LCA

- PoweredByMax Tie rods

- Generic Tie rod Ends

- Power steering rack moved forwards 20mm

- Front / Rear Whiteline adjustable sway bars

- s13 non-hicas Rear subframe gusseted and foam filled

- PoweredByMax Riser Bushings

- PoweredByMax Traction Arms

- PoweredByMax Toe Arms

- PoweredByMax Camber Arms

- R33 gtst front Brakes with QFM Pads and RDA rotors

- R32 gtst rear Brakes with QFM Pads and RDA rotors

- Tucked brake lines with Braided Hoses

- Hydraulic Handbrake with Standard Cable brake for parking

- Kaaz 2way Diff

The Office:

- 2 Seated

- Parcel tray panel

- Battery relocated behind passenger seat

- Completely re-wired using an EZ wiring Kit

- Sparco Sprint Fixed Back

- Safety 21 Rollcage, powder-coated orange with added harness bar

- RPM harness

- S15 Dash conversion

- Heater box / AC removed completely, runs electronic demister / fan

- JVC HU / Pioneer Splits

- Yet to decide on door trims / finish a few interior trims

- PoweredByMax shift knob

- Taped up Momo (soon to be nardi)

Now onto the good stuff:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358006-daves-thirty-two/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

CHASSIS PREP / WORK

- after fully stripping the car back to bare metal it was sprayed with a temporary easy to remove primer so i didn't have to worry about rust etc, then the work began on the chassis.

before:

15022009073.jpg

replacing a panel or two

25052009018.jpg

19052009016.jpg

and after:

i lost the after photo, but it was all back together.

how it is...

15022009079.jpg

15022009074.jpg

test fitted the cage

20062009127.jpg

then started work underneath

P9030001.jpg

primer

P9030004.jpg

full seal, after welding

P9030006.jpg

more primer

P9050001.jpg

paint test

P9050001-1.jpg

then under-seal

P9070002.jpg

sandblasted the engine bay and repaired some minor rust.

Image0007.jpg

then started on the paint

P9120001.jpg

this engine bay soon to be re-sprayed

Image0022.jpg

more panel prep, which ended up sitting in storage for a good 10-12 months, while i played with more interesting things

Image0054.jpg

PA180002.jpg

how it sat all covered up for the rainy periods.

PA180007.jpg

then the interior started

PA300001.jpg

followed by primer

PA300003.jpg

then into the booth for some paint

Image0073.jpg

PB100003.jpg

body work continued then wheel fitment came

PC100007.jpg

PC100003.jpg

guards soon to be re-done, was not happy jann !!!

back in the booth for more paint

Image0090.jpg

ALL paint soon to be re-done by my mate FLYNN !!! :)

Image0104.jpg

Image0111.jpg

girlfriend bought me the plates i wanted :P

Image0124.jpg

then the fun shit started...

MOTOR TIME

moved onto building the motor.

blasted the block, re-assembled after painting 2pac

DSC00062.jpg

lots of hoses / crap deleted ^^^

then started on the head

Image0388.jpg

Image0389.jpg

Image0417.jpg

Image0419.jpg

Image0421.jpg

Image0423.jpg

homemade tools :P

Image0425.jpg

and all done !!

Image0427.jpg

motor mounts came next, played with a few ideas came to conclude with this

Image0465.jpg

in the bay for first time

DSC00073.jpg

making all the piping

24102010657.jpg

ready to be welded up

23102010082.jpg

modified dump pipe

DSC00059.jpg

manifold and turbo location

Image0100-1.jpg

17092010044.jpg

17092010048.jpg

FMIC once piped up

04112010673.jpg

BACK TO PAINT WORK

re-did guards, much wider and blended back into body line

DSC00048.jpg

rear end assembled

DSC00056.jpg

taillights polished up

DSC00057.jpg

various paint progress photos.

DSC00046.jpg

DSC00058.jpg

straight off the gun

DSC00043.jpg

aero catches fitted

DSC00063.jpg

goodies from j-land arrived

19102010081.jpg

front assembled up

08012011107.jpg

almost there

DSC00072.jpg

Glass all in

DSC00070.jpg

DSC00069.jpg

Wow. there is a bullshit amount of time been spent on the body of this thing..... and then just to drift it. haha. i drift myself but i couldnt bare to spend that much time on it. it is a top notch build non the less.

Grate job and plenty of different ideas comming together.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...