Jump to content
SAU Community

Drivetrain Service

rehab2010
 Share

Recommended Posts

rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
Posted

Just did an oil change in my gearbox, rear diff, front diff and the transfer case. Car is a R33 GT-R.

Used Motul FF-LSD 75W-90 GL5 in the rear diff and the gearbox.

For the front diff I used some other Motul 75W-90 GL4/GL5 gear oil.

Transfer case got some ATF, Dextron.

Gearbox felt like junk since I bought the car - felt really clonky, notchy - I really thought it was dying, just to figure out that some bright spark filled it up with ATF.

After the change it feels great.

Used around 1.5litres for the rear diff.

Gearbox took around 4litres.

Transfer case took around 2litres of ATF.

Front diff took exactly 1litre of 75W-90.

I found some thread on the forum talking about filling transfer case. There is no need to fill transfer case from the top, where the shifter goes - just get one of those big syringe type pumps and its really easy to do it all from underneath the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358105-drivetrain-service/
Share on other sites
rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Great feel after almost 1000kms of driving.

Gearbox is noticeably less hot after driving - the gear stick used to get really hot.

3rd and 4th gear are really easy to get the gear into now, they used to feel slightly notchy. So far so good.

For all the people that are worried about how hard it is to change all the fluids - don't be. Its seriously easy task, don't pay people to do it for you, the only thing you may need is the big syringe. I got one from Autobarn for 38 bucks I think, and it holds 500mL. Getting the car off the deck is the difficult part, but having a mate with a hoist does help sometimes ;)

Fill and drain plugs are easy to find - front diff plugs are both on the front of the diff, rear diff plugs are also on the front end of the diff, gearbox plugs are on the drivers side of the box and the transfer case ones are both on the rear of the transfer case.

Happy maintaining :whistling:

rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well you got the wrong oil in the gearbox. the oil you put in the front diff is more suitable for the gearbox. you SHOULDNT put a lsd gl5/6 oil in a synchro box.

Can you give me a bit of an explanation why, since FF-LSD is listed for both the synchro gearboxes and also for the LSD's. Yes its GL5 true.

This is from wiki:

  • API GL-4, oils for various conditions - light to heavy. They contain up to 4.0% effective antiscuffing additives. Designed for bevel and hypoid gears which have small displacement of axes, the gearboxes of trucks, and axle units. Recommended for non-synchronized gearboxes of US trucks, tractors and buses and for main and other gears of all vehicles. These oils are basic for synchronized gearboxes, especially in Europe.
  • API GL-5, oils for severe conditions. They contain up to 6.5% effective antiscuffing additives. The general application of oils in this class are for hypoid gears having significant displacement of axes. They are recommended as universal oils to all other units of mechanical transmission (except gearboxes). Oils in this class, which have special approval of vehicle manufacturers, can be used in synchronized manual gearboxes only. API GL-5 oils can be used in limited slip differentials if they correspond to the requirements of specification MIL-L-2105D or ZF TE-ML-05. In this case the designation of class will be another, for example API GL-5+ or API GL-5 LS.

I'm just wondering if its a serious issue having GL5 instead of GL4, especially since this GL5 is listed as suitable for synchro gearboxes, or is it just a minor hassle?

rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well you got the wrong oil in the gearbox. the oil you put in the front diff is more suitable for the gearbox. you SHOULDNT put a lsd gl5/6 oil in a synchro box.

This is what Motul says:

GEAR FF-LSD TYPE 2 75W-90 is a special designed for FF (Front-engine / Front- drive) type transmission with mechanical LSD (Limited Slip Differential) system cars. 100% synthetic with complex ester. Suitable for all transmission (synchronized or non–synchronized), 6-speed transmission, gearbox with differential, transfer gearbox and hypoid differentials with or without LSD.

If this oil is really wrong I'd be pretty pissed off, almost 200 bucks pissed off.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

Hate to say it but Im with Dave mate,

Its a front wheel drive gear oil, think honda, focus or lancer where the gearbox shares a housing and oil with the diff.

(Front-engine / Front- drive) type transmission with mechanical LSD

Notice its says with not AND

Pretty sure it wont do any harm, but also pretty sure its not designed for your gearbox either..

Id be shooting motul an email and ask them. While your at it have a crack at them for wording their descriptions poorly :thumbsup:

rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hate to say it but Im with Dave mate,

Its a front wheel drive gear oil, think honda, focus or lancer where the gearbox shares a housing and oil with the diff.

(Front-engine / Front- drive) type transmission with mechanical LSD

Notice its says with not AND

Pretty sure it wont do any harm, but also pretty sure its not designed for your gearbox either..

Id be shooting motul an email and ask them. While your at it have a crack at them for wording their descriptions poorly :thumbsup:

Cool - hmmm, damn, and there was I selecting the oil for like an hour, then just grabbed the FF-LSD - oh well, next time I'll be more careful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...