Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's a bit of a mission to rip all the lines and the solenoid out, I put a lockbar in and then waited until I next had the engine out to remove the rest of the crap.

I got my lockbar off a trader over east (NYTSKY).

  • Replies 804
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It's a bit of a mission to rip all the lines and the solenoid out, I put a lockbar in and then waited until I next had the engine out to remove the rest of the crap.

I got my lockbar off a trader over east (NYTSKY).

pfftt, did mine with the motor in dont be weak. I know i did it when the rear cradle came out so cant remember how hard it will be with it in.

Rear cradle in or out make no difference to complexity. It's the solenoid under the plenum and the lines across the front crossmember and the cooler line that runs across the radiator support that present the problem.

I must say, it's a lot easier to change oil filters with the solenoid gone :P

I also ran an oil cooler in line with mine after i pulled the hicas out, there was another trader selling lockbars to but i havent seen him around for ages.

Once you pull the hicas out use the steel lines as "upgraded" fuel lines, they are 1/2in i'm pretty sure

Yeah i'm definitely not going to the amount of effort as taking all the tubing out.

Bare minimum is what I'm prepared to put in, the lines can stay, they won't be harming anyone.

Need to replace the front drivers side tie-rod end at the same time though, what is doing one of them like? No experience in suspension unfortunately.

Haven't had much of a chance to drive her around in the dry yet, but the other night I did and boy is the back end slippery on boost.

270hp really creeps up on you good when you are used to an auto ford BA :P

i fit mine next to the drivers side head light, but then again i had no air con core either. I miss that POS. :(

Worst comes to worst I'll mount the p/s and oil cooler at the top in front of the radiator but was trying to keep that path clear. With the GTR cooler setup behind a stock type-m front bar, doesn't leave a lot of room for anything!

But really I'm not phased at the moment, it's only going to be a daily until I get a gearbox for the wagon.

another trick i have seen (as it is not a super critical thing) is the cooler mounted at the base of the rad with a small scoop picking up air from underneath.

If you were looking between the rad and motor you would see it sitting horizontaly below, bit hard to explain.

another trick i have seen (as it is not a super critical thing) is the cooler mounted at the base of the rad with a small scoop picking up air from underneath.

If you were looking between the rad and motor you would see it sitting horizontaly below, bit hard to explain.

That is one of the potential locations :thumbsup: another is in between radiator and cooler (directly above bov return pipe), right down the bottom with a long narrow core, something like this should more than suffice.. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13210/?rtype=10

What turbo is it? Looks like a highflow?!?

It's the highflow off the wagon but freshly rebuilt by Grant at Per4manz (he built it originally), reckons it's good for 24psi and 400rwhp but I'll probably only wind 15psi into it until I get a new gearbox for the wagon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...