Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's a bit of a mission to rip all the lines and the solenoid out, I put a lockbar in and then waited until I next had the engine out to remove the rest of the crap.

I got my lockbar off a trader over east (NYTSKY).

  • Replies 804
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It's a bit of a mission to rip all the lines and the solenoid out, I put a lockbar in and then waited until I next had the engine out to remove the rest of the crap.

I got my lockbar off a trader over east (NYTSKY).

pfftt, did mine with the motor in dont be weak. I know i did it when the rear cradle came out so cant remember how hard it will be with it in.

Rear cradle in or out make no difference to complexity. It's the solenoid under the plenum and the lines across the front crossmember and the cooler line that runs across the radiator support that present the problem.

I must say, it's a lot easier to change oil filters with the solenoid gone :P

I also ran an oil cooler in line with mine after i pulled the hicas out, there was another trader selling lockbars to but i havent seen him around for ages.

Once you pull the hicas out use the steel lines as "upgraded" fuel lines, they are 1/2in i'm pretty sure

Yeah i'm definitely not going to the amount of effort as taking all the tubing out.

Bare minimum is what I'm prepared to put in, the lines can stay, they won't be harming anyone.

Need to replace the front drivers side tie-rod end at the same time though, what is doing one of them like? No experience in suspension unfortunately.

Haven't had much of a chance to drive her around in the dry yet, but the other night I did and boy is the back end slippery on boost.

270hp really creeps up on you good when you are used to an auto ford BA :P

i fit mine next to the drivers side head light, but then again i had no air con core either. I miss that POS. :(

Worst comes to worst I'll mount the p/s and oil cooler at the top in front of the radiator but was trying to keep that path clear. With the GTR cooler setup behind a stock type-m front bar, doesn't leave a lot of room for anything!

But really I'm not phased at the moment, it's only going to be a daily until I get a gearbox for the wagon.

another trick i have seen (as it is not a super critical thing) is the cooler mounted at the base of the rad with a small scoop picking up air from underneath.

If you were looking between the rad and motor you would see it sitting horizontaly below, bit hard to explain.

another trick i have seen (as it is not a super critical thing) is the cooler mounted at the base of the rad with a small scoop picking up air from underneath.

If you were looking between the rad and motor you would see it sitting horizontaly below, bit hard to explain.

That is one of the potential locations :thumbsup: another is in between radiator and cooler (directly above bov return pipe), right down the bottom with a long narrow core, something like this should more than suffice.. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13210/?rtype=10

What turbo is it? Looks like a highflow?!?

It's the highflow off the wagon but freshly rebuilt by Grant at Per4manz (he built it originally), reckons it's good for 24psi and 400rwhp but I'll probably only wind 15psi into it until I get a new gearbox for the wagon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...