Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wish I had only spent 50k. lol

Mine has had so many changes over the years with things I have been unhappy with.

When I got it, it had a RB25 with TD06-20g making 245rwkw. Added haltech and made 300. Got sick of that and had a twin turbo setup and made 399.

Killed the engine. Built a 25/30 with the twins. Changed twins to Garrett T51r, then changed the head to a 26.

Add in the broken gearboxes, fuel system upgrades, dyno tunes and the list goes on and on.

Finally ended up with a 26/30, T51r, nos, C4 auto, should have it up and running again soon so will be nice to get it on the street.

And still have more to do.... lol

Edited by WHITER33GTS-T
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I wish I had only spent 50k. lol

Mine has had so many changes over the years with things I have been unhappy with.

When I got it, it had a RB25 with TD06-20g making 245rwkw. Added haltech and made 300. Got sick of that and had a twin turbo setup and made 399.

Killed the engine. Built a 25/30 with the twins. Changed twins to Garrett T51r, then changed the head to a 26.

Add in the broken gearboxes, fuel system upgrades, dyno tunes and the list goes on and on.

Finally ended up with a 26/30, T51r, nos, C4 auto, should have it up and running again soon so will be nice to get it on the street.

And still have more to do.... lol

That is quite a story you have there mate :) I am gunning straight for the RB26/30 with the necessary bottom end to withstand the 600rwhp I will be pumping into it with my head that will be configured (ported, polished, camshafts, valve springs, valves etc.) to that power figure with a turbo that will do the job nicely. Along with the necessary driveline modifications to withstand my insane torque value I am aiming for.

Aaron

If its not a dragster wouldn't you be better off running twins?

Nah mate, I would rather just get a single as I can achieve what I want with the single. Perhaps in the future on another build but I have seen some pretty stupid quick skylines with singles take JUN and ENVY for example. stupid power and acceleration.

and lag ^^^

Exactly, you want response and only 600hp and you are choosing a single turbo on an RB26 head??? The only advantage I can see is simplicity of single turbo, easier to work on etc. But singles at the same relative size will have more lag.

Spend the money on

Tomei Oil pump

1.1mm block restrictor for 6-8bar or 1.3mm for 4-6bar pressure

Howards Rods/or if you really want spool...just stick with std

head porting(short turns and bowl area only)

CP pistons

HiOctane Sump

up to 264 10mm cams for 600hp is plenty.

HKS 2530's or Garrett -5's with E85

ID 1000 injectors

Bosch 044 x 2 fuel pumps

Power FC

6boost manifolds

Tomei Dumps

3" front pipies into 3.5 or 4"

Trusted builder

Matt

Edited by BoostdR

UPDATE

Fair enough in regards the the comments about the twins, I will look into it but I have partnered up with CCC engine building in Yatala, run by a man by the name Clay. He builds rotaries but has a vast history with rb26/30's. I am getting my intercooler, plumbing, custom exhaust manifold by him (with close ties with PWR). I am also going to discuss turbo choices with him and I am fairly confident he will bring up twin's or single and which would be better for what I am looking to achieve. Also, I have placed a deposit on an RB26DETT Crack tested and Guaranteed head from down south and I am placing the balancing payment in next week so I will be getting my head soon, very excited.

That is all for now,

Aaron

8 sec could quite possibly be achieved with a stripped out,auto, blown v8 in a old cheaper car...

once you start messing with skylines,RB's and Turbos its where the money adds up.

i purchased everything for my build to do it right the first time as cheap as possible and it was uncompleted at ~30k not including the car or driveline!

GT35 on a 26/30 in a GTR is quite ballsy

8 sec could quite possibly be achieved with a stripped out,auto, blown v8 in a old cheaper car...

once you start messing with skylines,RB's and Turbos its where the money adds up.

i purchased everything for my build to do it right the first time as cheap as possible and it was uncompleted at ~30k not including the car or driveline!

GT35 on a 26/30 in a GTR is quite ballsy

That much I do know as I have been brought up in the drag pits since I was 6 years of age and I have seen my fair share of wicked Blown V8's and Methanol guzzlers. Thing is I don't want a V8 in an old cheap car, I want a skyline with an RB26/30 because I love the combination of torque, power, comfort and style of the R33 Skyline with an RB26/30. Different applications call for different budgets. Connections and simple know how can bring down the price while keeping the build legit. I know I won't build it for under $15,000 but I am not phased by it at all. By all means thank you, but I just want to say once again I am not building it for a cheap/legit/quick car because it isn't really possible, but I am building it because I want to. It is like saying you can buy an orange because it is cheaper than an apple because they are both fruit but thing is, I want an apple.

I have thought about other shells such as 350z's (pipe dreams) but it is all to much stuffing around to get it to fit.

oh yeah , i was just pointing out that 50k isnt really an exaggeration at all, as you said on the first page when comparing it to a V8 drag car, also backing it up with my experience in gathering parts over time as cheaply as possible - no labour.

but thats enough about that!

all in all goodluck with the build! Be sure the guys you use really do know what works and whats not needed.

BoostdR is onto something

TO4Z should net you a responsive 600hp on a 3 or 3.2l

oh yeah , i was just pointing out that 50k isnt really an exaggeration at all, as you said on the first page when comparing it to a V8 drag car, also backing it up with my experience in gathering parts over time as cheaply as possible - no labour.

but thats enough about that!

all in all goodluck with the build! Be sure the guys you use really do know what works and whats not needed.

BoostdR is onto something

TO4Z should net you a responsive 600hp on a 3 or 3.2l

No worries :) we will see when it is completed haha.

Cheers for that jangles, and don't worry I have plenty of confidence in the guys I am entrusting with my build. This week I think I may have a chat with Clay to sort out and finalise the turbo selection and dimensions of my plumbing.

im liking this, but build pages need pics, pics and more pics! :)

Thanks mate :) and on that note, I have purchased the RB26DETT Head for the build,

febrb26hd1.jpg

febrb26hd2.jpg

febrb26hd3.jpg

febrb26hd4.jpg

I cannot wait for it to arrive, I am going to get it sent for crack testing ASAP so I can start thinking about saving for the headwork.

Edited by azarawr
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...