Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have been trying to work out the best wat to install my 12"fosgate sub in my 34 :domokun:

i have been looking at the ebay fiberglass ones but i not sure on the sound guality it would put out

i would like it so i can still use my spare wheel if needed but have it so i can do some spirited driving and not have to think about damageing it pinch.gif

any pics of what u have done would be nice cheers

here is a pic of my old sub box with new sub n paired amp i was thinking redoing the floor in chip board and haveing some mounting plates that wing nut it down to the spare wheel cover and mount the cover/ floor to the body same way soem f*kn around to get spare wheel out but atlast i could and my box wont move ?166690_193815617311004_100000477008080_713247_1874290_n.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358661-r34-12-sub-install/
Share on other sites

I did the same moulded sub enclosure, sounded great, but I had to pour like 4L of sound deadening into it, add dacron as well as make a small bracket and wrap the underside in anti-slip matts.

It did not move at all :)

mount the amp under the rear shelf, on a wooden baffle, either on show or behind the wood so you can't see it

mount the sub in a custom box on the passenger side , where the jack is. mold a box to fit the space, move the jack to the middle of the spare tyre.

all can be hidden and spare comes out without any other mods. nice tight bass, .

eblow box, works but takes up too much space and sounds generic

. you can fit the sub behind the factory panel if you do a custom box. and add another on the drivers side if you desire later. or mount the amp behind the rear panel on the drivers side , totally hidden !!! no metal cutting /mods to mount it

mount the amp under the rear shelf, on a wooden baffle, either on show or behind the wood so you can't see it

mount the sub in a custom box on the passenger side , where the jack is. mold a box to fit the space, move the jack to the middle of the spare tyre.

all can be hidden and spare comes out without any other mods. nice tight bass, .

eblow box, works but takes up too much space and sounds generic

. you can fit the sub behind the factory panel if you do a custom box. and add another on the drivers side if you desire later. or mount the amp behind the rear panel on the drivers side , totally hidden !!! no metal cutting /mods to mount it

hide or show off amp got it

as for sub box do u mean add some on to the passanger side peace( like half a box ?) for the sub or make the hole bigger to match the sub and mount it to the car ?

hide or show off amp got it

as for sub box do u mean add some on to the passanger side peace( like half a box ?) for the sub or make the hole bigger to match the sub and mount it to the car ?

if you look behind the trim panel, where the jack is at, the space is just right to fit a 12" sub in a fiberglass box. you can use the little tabs on the metal to mount it. and if desired remove it for track days.

it can fit completely behind the factory panel and a custom grill made to hide it. or show it off your choice. I had mine there but now use a bandpass box which uses that area and some of the space outside the panel, ported thru the rear deck holes. the space is deep enough for most subs and if they work in a sealed box your all good. which the rockfords do

not sure if I still have any old photos , but can show you a photo of the size hole when removed.

if you look behind the trim panel, where the jack is at, the space is just right to fit a 12" sub in a fiberglass box. you can use the little tabs on the metal to mount it. and if desired remove it for track days.

it can fit completely behind the factory panel and a custom grill made to hide it. or show it off your choice. I had mine there but now use a bandpass box which uses that area and some of the space outside the panel, ported thru the rear deck holes. the space is deep enough for most subs and if they work in a sealed box your all good. which the rockfords do

not sure if I still have any old photos , but can show you a photo of the size hole when removed.

anypics would help mate

You could probably replace the thin floorboard into a much thicker one, then use bolted down heavy duty straps to hold your sub+enclosure+amp in place, it will never move. And you can still access your spare wheel in case of an emergency (pssst, or carry one or more of those fix-a-flat cans) That is what I would do anyway.

it will move, when you drive spirited or get hit it turns into a missle.

example

on a defensive driving track day in my work car, a 1.5 litre half empty water bottle in my camry boot , tore the folding rear seats down while latched while on the ABS brake thru the cones test. now imagine a box, amp, speaker, hunk of wood, ripping the rear plate open on the r34 and landing on your lap or the side of the car open like a can opener.

I'll dig up some photos today.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...