Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As title says In the last month after turning the car on to warm up and on 3 occasions when I turn the headlights on the whole car shuts down.

I then have to turn ign off and start again and its fine.

I have a 1 year old battery which I replaced with a bigger one. I dont think its a battery thing.

Has anyone else experienced this before?

As title says In the last month after turning the car on to warm up and on 3 occasions when I turn the headlights on the whole car shuts down.

I then have to turn ign off and start again and its fine.

I have a 1 year old battery which I replaced with a bigger one. I dont think its a battery thing.

Has anyone else experienced this before?

never heard if it before........ something to consider even tho the likelyhood isnt great.

all M35's have an auto/park/low beam setup ?

if so could the auto selection be shorting out on something ie: you had foggies and they cut the wires and they are shorting out...... but this should blow the fuse not mess up the ECU.

also the power consumption of the headlights shouldnt have enough of a serge to make the car stall, but in saying that maybe a coilpack is playing up? (just another idea)

also check ur relays there could be a damaged one.

maybe an auto electrician can tell you more............. i usually play with 240V not 12V :)

cheers, Theo.

i usually play with 240V not 12V :)

cheers, Theo.

I usually play with anything upto 275000V also. Yes your right I would blow a fuse if I had a short.

I dont think its a coil pack yet because its only shut down when the lights are turned on. But I am thinking something HV. I think the headlight transformers are breaking down to earth on the HV side and the ecu isnt liking it.

so unplug the headlights at the headlight unit one at a time and test by turning the switch on.

see if it only does it with one etc. you appear to be a sparky, use your head :P

if it still stalls with both headlights unplugged, its somewhere in the switch or the loom.

when they automatically turn on, does it stall too? if not, its not the headlights, its probably the switch. i have a spare if you think thats what it is

Sounds like a bad earth somewhere, I changed the battery terminals over to the larger ones for a better connection and fitted earthing wires around the engine bay, do you have an earthing kit? Check all the earth connections on the engine as they are known to corrode.

The BCM under the inside fusebox controls the headlight switches, I would think it then goes to the relay board behind the battery. Check all the plugs on that too.

so unplug the headlights at the headlight unit one at a time and test by turning the switch on.

see if it only does it with one etc. you appear to be a sparky, use your head :P

if it still stalls with both headlights unplugged, its somewhere in the switch or the loom.

when they automatically turn on, does it stall too? if not, its not the headlights, its probably the switch. i have a spare if you think thats what it is

I smell what your cooking. The problem is it has only happened 3 times in the month I cant fault it when I try it again a few times. I hate finding intermittent faults. I will try leaving the lights on auto and see if it does the same thing over time.

Also it dosent just stall it goes completely dead all dash lights everything goes off and stays off until I turn ign off and on.

Its like a relay trips off and is reset when car is turned off.

Sounds like a bad earth somewhere, I changed the battery terminals over to the larger ones for a better connection and fitted earthing wires around the engine bay, do you have an earthing kit? Check all the earth connections on the engine as they are known to corrode.

The BCM under the inside fusebox controls the headlight switches, I would think it then goes to the relay board behind the battery. Check all the plugs on that too.

Ive checked all the earths and yes I have an earthing kit around the engine bay that I made up. I think this has only started since the turbo rebuild. But I think the problem was there before I took the engine out.

I havent had any thing else play up yet but the problem is like if you unpluged the BCM and then nothing happens.

Ill have another look around that area and maybe ill unplug the ecu again.

Brad, another thing to look at is your ignition barrel. I had a bad connection in the ignition barrel so that all the accessories would turn off at random times. Turned out to be a bad connection on the barrel so that if the key moved slightly power would be cut.

Cheers

Andy

Ive checked all the earths and yes I have an earthing kit around the engine bay that I made up. I think this has only started since the turbo rebuild. But I think the problem was there before I took the engine out.

I havent had any thing else play up yet but the problem is like if you unpluged the BCM and then nothing happens.

Ill have another look around that area and maybe ill unplug the ecu again.

Engine out for a turbo swap? Who told you that was a good idea? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...