Jump to content
SAU Community

C34 Timing Belt

NYL83R

By NYL83R,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

NYL83R Proficient

NYL83R

Posted
Posted

I need to change my timing belt, and about to buy a kit, but i want to make sure it is the correct one for my car. apparently there are 3 different belts??

my car is a 1999 WGNC34 Series 2 (RB25DET Neo) does anyone know how many teeth are on the belt? 141 teeth or 133 teeth?

Dayco Timing Belt Kit - PART No: KTBA173

Cheers,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359479-c34-timing-belt/
Share on other sites
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

i just ordered this today

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120704897237&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1749wt_856

CHARGED said he ordered the same kit and it fitted up fine, the belt and pulleys are the same for all rb25's its the waterpump that varies and i think this waterpump is the slotted type (fits all models)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359479-c34-timing-belt/#findComment-5741623
Share on other sites
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

Just had the world's worst with the 25G.

Recommend you put in a full kit with both pulleys. Also replace water pump, get one for a VL commonhore. Also replace all the ancillary belts. It may cost a bit but can save you heaps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359479-c34-timing-belt/#findComment-5741677
Share on other sites
NYL83R Proficient

NYL83R

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the advice guys... the one you got Tom, sounds like the goods. Yeah i thought all the rb25 kits would be ok, just started second guessing it when i read the description of the one i was looking at

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TIMING-BELT-KIT-NISSAN-LAUREL-SKYLINE-STAGEA-/140461661396?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b42adcd4

didn't even think about getting one from the US...and genuine too! it would be worth getting the kit with the water pump. i will send the guy a message and see if he has any more :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359479-c34-timing-belt/#findComment-5741774
Share on other sites
horrace Rising Star

horrace

Posted
Posted

For what it's worth I used the dayco kit that comes with both pulleys and its been all good for 20,000 so far, definitely do the idler and tensioner at least, water pump should be good for 200,000 but it's up to you for your piece of mind I didn't.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359479-c34-timing-belt/#findComment-5741856
Share on other sites
NYL83R Proficient

NYL83R

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah, don't really need the water pump, but worth getting if only an extra $50 or so.....

I noticed in the dayco kit photo there is something sitting under one of the pulleys? not shown in the US ebay photo.... is it important ?

post-11630-0-96855000-1301884814_thumb.jpg

post-11630-0-52756700-1301884885_thumb.jpg

post-11630-0-37738700-1301884891_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359479-c34-timing-belt/#findComment-5744629
Share on other sites
NYL83R Proficient

NYL83R

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah not the black rubber rings... the thing one of the pulleys is sitting on... i think this could just be a generic stock photo.

Well i ended up ordering the kit from the US with the water pump. Not that i thought anything was wrong with the dayco kit. I just thought and extra $50 for a water pump and thermostat was a good deal, and with the car being 11 years old, it does not hurt to change them anyway :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359479-c34-timing-belt/#findComment-5746043
Share on other sites
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

Good choice to get the water pump. Afterfitting the belt kit someone (not me) overtensioned the W/P fan belt which overloaded the bearing, which shagged itself and the shaft snapped. The fan uniy went for a free flight under the bonnet and went thru the radiator. All very expensive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359479-c34-timing-belt/#findComment-5746174
Share on other sites
Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

The "thing" in the photo you are reffering to, is the spring loaded tensioner unit that one of the pulleys is attached to the engine by. The other kit does have it, but it is shown inside the pulley, not seperate from it.

If it isnt supplied its no real issue any way as the spring unit is pretty indestructable, its the bearing that usually fails

(isnt it hugh? :laugh: )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359479-c34-timing-belt/#findComment-5748221
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
NYL83R Proficient

NYL83R

Posted
  • Author
Posted

quick update...

got my package from the US... prtty happy with it :) awesome value and all items were sealed in genuine packaging.

Fitting everything this weekend

Should i try and source any gaskets? or do I just use some sort of gasket goop?

post-11630-0-93636700-1303081561_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359479-c34-timing-belt/#findComment-5766842
Share on other sites
Run-It-Hard Veteran

Run-It-Hard

Posted
Posted

FYI Guys,

I can get timing belt kits and water pumps for those interested.

All tensioners are NTN, seals are NOK and belts are gates (Japanease/American quality)

Our listings show that all the RB belts are the same, the tensioners vary from the 26 though.

Water pump is the same deal, can share from 20 to 25.

:thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359479-c34-timing-belt/#findComment-5772906
Share on other sites
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

The "thing" in the photo you are reffering to, is the spring loaded tensioner unit that one of the pulleys is attached to the engine by. The other kit does have it, but it is shown inside the pulley, not seperate from it.

If it isnt supplied its no real issue any way as the spring unit is pretty indestructable, its the bearing that usually fails

(isnt it hugh? :laugh: )

Well yes and no I did the RS at 110k and there was no info like this around. We are talking 2006 Just did the belts. Have had no probs so far. Touch wood The 25g had the belt only replaced at 106k. The idler pulley failed at 153k. The water pump shaft broke the next day caus someone overtightened the fan belt.

Incidently as I said earlier, the VL water pump is the same as but is less expensive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359479-c34-timing-belt/#findComment-5773146
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...