Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Problem is the Varex is SO restrictive when closed, it's worse than the stock exhaust.

So you end up driving around with it open because it makes the car "that bad" to drive.

Point taken. I still like the idea of leaving to work at 5am quietly. Also, going past cops quietly, Able to have a conversation with misses while going out for a coffee and so on. So yes, they are illegal, i did mention it, but to me its worth it. Dont forget i drive a 4 cylinder so my exhaust is louder. but each to their own on that one. Its an option.

It's not that bad to drive when closed...just stay off boost (though a few psi doesn't kill it), which I do throughout most daily driving anyway. Agree with Adis...early morning / late night startups alone are worth it - I'm 100db when open.

And according to those that have had one the cared mufflers sound awful. Mine is a lot quieter than most...and why... Because it's a kakimoto, which all have sound restrictors in the muffler lol :) my 2c... If ur not pulling big power, like I'm not... A kakimoto is the way forward. :)

Problem is the Varex is SO restrictive when closed, it's worse than the stock exhaust.

So you end up driving around with it open because it makes the car "that bad" to drive.

And it makes it sound like arse.

Edited by llama_au

I got quoted $1200-1300 for mine. Full custom legal 3" exhaust. Only marginally more expensive than an off the shelf item really.

Visit racepace and you will get an awesome flowing exhaust and quiet. That's how much they want :s

People compliment the sound from my twin tip Varex all the time...Hamish will tell you it's not that bad. And it can't sound worse than the rest of your system is responsible for, given the twin tip is basically a straight pipe when open...

Enough Varex hate!

Problem is the Varex is SO restrictive when closed, it's worse than the stock exhaust.

So you end up driving around with it open because it makes the car "that bad" to drive.

as in enough to cause problems or??

was thinking of doing it..not a muffler, just the flange valve, like the apexi ones.

If you run around with an exhaust that is closed like that - it's more restrictive than the factory exhaust in essence.

If you are running then a modified setup, more power and so on... You are creating ridiculous backpressure and that can actually damage the motor and is not healthy at all.

I mean it's "that" restrictive you struggle to even put the foot down and generate boost but if you try - it's not a good thing. I'd prefer not having to remember to flick a button before putting the pedal down.

And plus - by the time you've seen the Police officer to close it, it's already too late in most instances as they'll hear you coming long before you'll see them.

If you run around with an exhaust that is closed like that - it's more restrictive than the factory exhaust in essence.

If you are running then a modified setup, more power and so on... You are creating ridiculous backpressure and that can actually damage the motor and is not healthy at all.

I mean it's "that" restrictive you struggle to even put the foot down and generate boost but if you try - it's not a good thing. I'd prefer not having to remember to flick a button before putting the pedal down.

And plus - by the time you've seen the Police officer to close it, it's already too late in most instances as they'll hear you coming long before you'll see them.

ah ok.

agree with your last line..

It's not dichotomous like that. You can have it half open, a third, a quarter...find the balance between flow and volume if you like. Whatever you think Varex can't do for you, you're losing nothing by having it there. Illegal it may be, it no longer matters these days...you can get an EPA notice for a standard exhaust, without a cop even hearing it, as we've seen. But atleast I can have a sporty note and can maintain a level of respect for my neighbours during sleeping hours, or give my passengers (and myself) a pleasant road trip on the highway when the constant drone of a loud exhaust isn't appropriate. Keep an eye 200 metres behind and in front, and you'll have plenty of time for the 3 seconds it takes to shut the valve. Anyway, I'll stop selling it to you...in a way, the less of you that have one, the less aware of them the police are = the better it is for people like me!!!

my exhaust is pretty quiet.. even on full throttle.. but i just wanted something that would be dead quiet..

only reason is I like to start my car about 10 minutes before i jump in it in the morning..

when the car cold starts its really loud ,... it has that drone.

i leave for work by 5:30am.. neighbours havnt said anything but(I have nice neighbours) thats the only reason i want it..

There is no point to doing that. 30 sec, start and off you go once oil pressure and so on has settled.

Best way to warm the car up, I rarely let mine idle for longer than 2-3 mins.

Or if you really must - go drive down the street and let it sit there out the front of someone elses :P

I thought your better off granny-ing the car for a couple of k's in the morning than letting the car idle to warm it up?

Coz when you let it idle, the only thing will be warmed up is your engine, but everything else is still cold?

stock engine's are actually designed to be warmed up for 30 sec max and then driven.

excess idleing is not good for the engine and does not warm up your gearbox or diff oil anyway

Whenever i drive in the morning (learners).

Turn on car. Put up plates. (prob 1 min or so)

Drive off keeping rpm low/babying it until i get onto the main roads. Its usually fully warm by the time i reach the main road. (2 mins)

oh really? didnt know that, i thought i was just under the impression that your meant to let it warm up for 10 min.. i mean all the adds say it.

If you have a carbie car you should, for atmo injected definately not, for turbo as above, no boosting before she warms up, ask most mechanics and they will tell you that the 10min rule is a waste of fuel, and with fuel quickly heading towards $2p/ltr thats a lot of wasted money!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
    • Some more close up pics now that I’m back to working on the car, the loop pile is nice but again haven’t compared it to the other types in person, it’s hard to tell from the pics on the website. View of the hemming on the edges too, it comes in 2 pieces - front and back, honestly very happy with it for anyone on the fence.  Also attached my previous pics from further up as it didn’t let me post them directly before. (Nothing worse than photo bucket pics that aren’t hosted anymore years later)
×
×
  • Create New...