Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Covered a million times on here before and i have done a search as well..

But basically my new r33 gtr skyline's injectors are leaking from around 3 of them, 2 being at the top of the injector and the other from the bottem..

One of the ones that leaks from the top (nearest to front of engine) just pours out constantly..

Whats the best solution to curing this? car is stock with stock injectors.

Should i just take it to an injector specialist in bunbury (although i dont any) can anyone reccomend anyone? so they can clean and put new seals on (hoping that they are not cracked) and clean them...

Or should i just buy later injectors off a r34 gtr???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359712-leaking-injectors/
Share on other sites

GTR injectors will always leak eventually. If you bought new ones, take them back for a refund. If you bought second hand ones, then buyer beware. If you buy another set of GTR injectors, they will ALSO leak eventually. They all do, there is no way to fix them.

Before ditching them, though, check the top and bottom seals to be sure it is the injectors fault. Usually they leak from the small holes near the top on the side when the car is running. They will not leak when the car is not running.

They would leak when engine is off due to fuel pressure left in the pressure side of the fuel system.

Once the pressure has escaped it should stop. If it's definately not the orings and it is the injectors, might be a good time to get some new injectors (bigger) and a tune to suit?

If you turn the key to the on position and you start getting leaks, then try replacing the o-rings first. Replace both top and bottom. You can get these from any injector cleaning place or mobile guy or from Nissan at approx $1 each I think (I don't know exact price as I buy them in bags of 200)

If the injectors leak from the small holes on the side near the top, then they are fubar and you will need to buy new ones.

For a basic street car, just get some siemens ~500cc and a Nistune or something equivalent. If you are after something more serious, talk to your tuner or mechanic more about the size they recommend and the brand they recommend.

Just turned the key to the on position (without the engine running) and straight away fuel on 3 of the injectors started to leak fom the top down does this mean it will be the o rings then?

If its right at the top near the rail then yeah, probably o-rings. If you're not sure, just change them anyway because they're cheap and its an easy job. Search the DIY - i did a write up. Interestingly, i had to remove my rail recently and just pulling it out and reinstalling it was enough to kill 2 orings FFFUUUUU.... Probably should have pulled all the injectors out of the rail and re-lubed them.

  • 3 weeks later...

Well today my injectors coem from america..

Anyway used the guide on here to fit em all is well on idle..

As soon as i just drive normally it has a miss like its trying or should i say nearly running on 5 cylinders, put your foot down and that goes away although on full boost boost it does leave a cloud of black smoke which it didnt used to do...

Anyway my question is does this mean one or more of the new to me std gtr injectors aint flowing enough??

Should i just take em all of again and get em flo tested or could this be somat else?

Note it didnt miss like this when the old leaking injectors were in...

As soon as i just drive normally it has a miss like its trying or should i say nearly running on 5 cylinders, put your foot down and that goes away although on full boost boost it does leave a cloud of black smoke which it didnt used to do...

Anyway my question is does this mean one or more of the new to me std gtr injectors aint flowing enough??

Should i just take em all of again and get em flo tested or could this be somat else?

Note it didnt miss like this when the old leaking injectors were in...

What boost are you running? Are the replacement injectors new or used?

Black smoke = rich mixture, which you'd expect on a stock ECU, especially if you've raised the boost.

GTR injectors will always leak eventually. If you bought new ones, take them back for a refund. If you bought second hand ones, then buyer beware. If you buy another set of GTR injectors, they will ALSO leak eventually. They all do, there is no way to fix them.

Before ditching them, though, check the top and bottom seals to be sure it is the injectors fault. Usually they leak from the small holes near the top on the side when the car is running. They will not leak when the car is not running.

I also think so.

  • 9 months later...

If you turn the key to the on position and you start getting leaks, then try replacing the o-rings first. Replace both top and bottom. You can get these from any injector cleaning place or mobile guy or from Nissan at approx $1 each I think (I don't know exact price as I buy them in bags of 200)

Just tried this out then and i can hear a leak coming from the first injector, I cant really tell weather it's coming from the top or bottom though.

I cant visually see or smell fuel but just a leaking air sound?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...