Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Marko, I'll take the timber spare wheel cover thingy.

Also if youw ant to seperate the boot carpet only, don't need the side trims.

Do you also have the dust cover that sits under the engine?

PM me your details mate, dependign on location will organise to meet up soon.

Cheers

Bobby

  • Replies 386
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Marko, I'll take the timber spare wheel cover thingy.

Also if youw ant to seperate the boot carpet only, don't need the side trims.

Do you also have the dust cover that sits under the engine?

PM me your details mate, dependign on location will organise to meet up soon.

Cheers

Bobby

i have sent you a pm with my details for the wheel cover & carpet boot

i dont have the cover that sits under the engine

$750 for the box !!!

its in perfect condition mate that's a F#$@ steal, some very happy man will by it .

yes it is nick & you've driven my black gtr, box is nice to drive as well!

19. front upper control arms with nolathane bushes (done 2000km) - $150 PRICE DROP $120/quote]

still got these? will you post to Perth? pm me

thanks,

Clayton

19. front upper control arms with nolathane bushes (done 2000km) - $150 PRICE DROP $120

still got these? will you post to Perth? pm me

thanks,

Clayton

yes i do - if you want them, i'll cover postage :)

i'll pm you my bank details

Hi interested in your steering rack. Is it in good working condition?

Also how much shipped to melbourne 3133?

steering rack is good as new.

shipping seems to be about $20, as per auspost.com.au

if its anymore than that, i'll wear the cost :)

Hey mate any chance you still have the rotary light switch ?? If so how much with postage to 3805 VIC

EDIT: Just saw that you dont have the switch lol

Hey mate any chance you still have the rotary light switch ?? If so how much with postage to 3805 VIC

EDIT: Just saw that you dont have the switch lol

I sold the light switch a while ago.

Its 1 of those high demand parts though, speaking of high demand - I think I received dozens of pm's on front end parts, in particular front bar and front reo.

I can see an opening for a business venture, source aftermarket front end bits for an r32gtr and u will be a rich man!

52. nissan rear bootlid badge SOLD

i still have the following genuine badges:

- GTR bootlid (black)

- bonnet badge

- front ¼ panel GT badges

1. gearbox - $750

2. front door trims - $200

3. rear door trims - $170

4. dash pad - $150.00 SOLD

5. dash cluster with 180km/h speedo (showing 73000km) - $150

6. doors (includes tinted glass & power window mechanisms) - $320

7. front windscreen (with antenna) - $150

8. rear tail lights - $160

9. new ASI radiator (unopened in box) - $150

10. mirrors - $120.00 SOLD

11. front lip - $200.00 SOLD

12. factory afm - $50

13. blitz icolor dual solenoid dsbc boost controller (with user manual) - $600

14. attesa 4wd pump - $350

15. input shaft for transfer case/4wd - $50

16. work wheel nuts - $120

17. hicas pump - $120

18. ohlins suspension, very nice ride & not too hard/bumpy like most coilovers - $400

19. front upper control arms with nolathane bushes (done 2000km) - $120 SOLD

20. speedo cable which has done 2000km - $70

21. dash clock - $40

22. rear subframe 'pineapples' to lock in blown out bushes & stiffen rear end - $70

23. spare wheel - $50

24. dash vent (passenger side) - $50

25. nismo engine oil cap - $20

26. left cv with knuckle assembly - $150

27. right cv with knuckle assembly - $150

28. torque split controller 'extreme tsc' - $100

29. drivers side window/mirror control - $80

30. sun visors - $30

31. complete boot trim - $160

32. timber wheel cover - $20 SOLD

33. centre console stereo fascia (late model grey wrinkle finish) - $50 SOLD

34. leather boots for gear lever & hand brake - $50 SOLD

35. instrument panel surround (does not have headlight switch & wiper button) - $40

36. power steering line - $40

37. caster (radius) rods (bushes are good) - $80

38. radiator overflow bottle - $30

39. passenger & drivers side door sill garnish - $80

40. door seal finish - $30

41. front window garnish - $30 pair SOLD

42. factory side skirts - $180

43. steering rack - $100 SOLD

44. front subframe - $60

45. front indicator - $90 SOLD

46. bootlid rubber seal (no tears) - $30

47. power steering reservoir - $20

48. earls braided brake lines (front and rear) - $120

49. factory blow off valves complete with plumbing - $130

50. gtr calipers front & rear, epoxy coated high temp red with a painted high temp stencil 'nismo' - $350

51. 'race brakes' race compound pads front & rear - $180

52. passenger side window switch - $40

52. genuine black gtr bootlid badge - $70

53. genuine bonnet badge - $30

54. genuine front ¼ panel gt badges - $60

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...