Jump to content
SAU Community

  

11 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I've started talking to a new company in NSW that will be releasing their own kits for a range of cars & saw it as a good opportunity to try get a bit more variety in Aus, rather than the usual Uras copy for Ceffies. Obviously they're not going to buy a few genuine kits and create molds if there isn't enough interest. So.... what kits would Cefiro owners like to see copied & made available in Aus?

Poll is multiple choice. If you want another kit added let me know, I'll chuck it in.

Edited by a31rb25
  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i have an idea.

copy the original SERIES 3 front bumper. remove the "lower grill" bits. like... you know... the "teeth" of it if you will..

then just get the fibre glasser to mock up a Club-S front (style) front lip.

cefiros have an old body shape - they look best with STOCK bodies.. the cefiro post-jdm. they dont need big swoopy huge body kits anymore. they get enough "kudos" on the road without NEEDING gaudy kits like final konnexion / BN sports

just re-make the original.. customise it so that it looks a bit more bad ass... fabricate a lip onto it to get some lowness happening. and voila!!!

i know that this is a soarer... but this guy has taken the series 3 soarer OEM bumper, and stuck a type 1 lip onto it. and i reckon it looks awesome

mickeym0use63-img600x450-1302494209igwwhp54762.jpg

^^^imagine that sytle adapted to a cefiro!

Autech kit in polyurethane rather than shitty fibreglass.

All the euro shops in UK/USA do polyurethane for the same price as we buy fibreglass knockoffs at for beemers and audi's. All comes out of china too.

Looks like the front bumper may be getting changed...

a31-ceffiro_1_02.jpg

That's why I was asking, I've been seeing that same kit advertised with a blurred out front bar for the last 4 years or so on yahoo auctions.

I'm yet to find out if this company will make/copy kits for Cefiros at all, so far the conversation has just been floating the idea, sending them images of kits available in Japan. I'm meeting them Sunday to speak about it more. Please take all of this with a grain of salt - I don't want to build false hope.

Thoughts on an Autech kit with a second hole on the other side of the front bar?

Edited by a31rb25

Keen on symmetrical Autech kit.

Autech S2 / S3 ?

S2/S3?

S1? (middle section chopped out)

100_1079.jpg

S2 front with lip?

728482130fullvm0.jpg

S1 rear

728482136fullzf2.jpg

S2 rear?

400x350-2007101600023.jpg

What's S3? Or have I just got it wrong and there's only Autech S2/S3?

I'd even consider getting this one (Japanese words) TBO if the bottom centre section lined up with the lower flared section in the centre - it'd be similar to a symmetrical Autech bar with the lip molded in (albeit a more pronounced lip)

TBO21611110001.jpg

Edited by a31rb25

Never seen a Series 3 Autech

Series 2 front bar = here (althought that is a fibreglass front bar from Japan, so I'm not sure if S2 is actually symmetrical or not from Autech factory)

http://www.skylinesa...-north-america/

Autech S2 has a lip built in

You can buy a lip/flare for S1 Autech (in the Cool Shit thread I started in this section)

Edited by Nic_A31

...how about cut n shut a supermade instant gentleman S13 kit to suit cefiro? or possibly use Mark2 as a base?

think this:

main.jpg

or this:

p1.jpg

p7.jpg

but on a cefiro... would look great i reckon.

just puddin' it out there :)

...how about cut n shut a supermade instant gentleman S13 kit to suit cefiro? or possibly use Mark2 as a base?

think this:

or this:

but on a cefiro... would look great i reckon.

just puddin' it out there :)

:yucky: :yucky: :yucky:

Not a fan of instant gentlemen at all...

Im down for standard S1 Autech with two holes and lip kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...