Jump to content
SAU Community

  

11 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Dan - i *think* it's called the 3910 cefiro..

it's the red and white pair of cefiros from japan with the white rims

made a lot of noise on japcar blogs late last year...

i think the rims were were origin DNA???

can anybody please post pics? they all seem to be dead links... :( there's a red one and a white one :)

stock bodied iirc!

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cheers big ears

See stock is sexy...

Make a copy of the bumper.. Tweak the mouth a bit.. Maybe turn it upside down so it doesn't "smile"

And extend the front lip / replace it with a shakotan chin spoiler...

I'd do that. Just clean with no swoop

Not a fan of the stock bar/lip at all. I can see the advantages of it on a street car though, no uber flares or superlow cop-bait features.

Quick update: Company I'm talking to is chasing down the possibility of producing a symmetrical Autech S1 kit in plastic.

Company I'm talking to is chasing down the possibility of producing a symmetrical Autech S1 kit in plastic.

i want in on this gangbang.

I get the feeling I'm going to get shot if this falls through... so i'll throw it out there. NO PROMISES!!!

Personally I'm happy with a fibreglass kit if it's not going to cost a squillon dollars and there's a mold but I'll keep everybody posted on the progress.

My only problem with the stock bars is that they bend inwards too much / become to narrow.

Compare inside bottom of bumper to where the doors / body are on the chassis.

Should atleast be inline with that. Or where the park light / indicator is where it joins the fender, straight drop downwards, rather than merge back in.

By comparison, all aftermarket kits overfix this by going bullshit wide with the flaring (ie Uras)

IMO This is why Autech is sought after, it keeps the car "stock looking" somewhat as Rowan suggested, and also squares up the shape of the body a bit without going over the top. Subtle yet very effective.

Edited by Nic_A31

I get the feeling I'm going to get shot if this falls through...

shot? no. banned? yes. :D no pressure.

lol I need plastic cos my stock front bar (no splitter) sits 2inches off the ground at the current height. Autech is lower so it'll sit nice and low. At that height fibreglass will shatter when I go over a lane marker/rock.

Instant gentleman would be sweet, but:

1) too much work to make a mould

2) doesn't really suit the square faces of the ceffy. Chaser etc are much more rounded.

Autech's the only one that goes straight down and doesn't look mad homo by flaring out. You can buy good quality fibreglass Autech kits from aeromaster.jp pretty cheap... but it's kinda pointless.

I'd like to see Autech series 1, "widened" mouth, symmetrical hole on the drivers side,

and something I've always wanted to see....... what about incorporating the factory side illumination lamps?

^^ this is a good idea , i wouldn't go too much wider with the 'mouth' probably 3-5cm each way?

Widened mouth? How big are the coolers you're running to need a widened mouth?

I'll ask about the add on lip next time we speak but i'm going with the symmetrical Autech bar for now as it's simple (which hopefully means cheap). Baby steps, IF that works out then I'll start looking at other stuff like the lip, roof spoiler and so on.

Edited by a31rb25

and something I've always wanted to see....... what about incorporating the factory side illumination lamps?

If this happens and I get one, I'm just gonna cut mine to put the lamps in... should be pretty straightforward.

Latest news: For legal reasons any design has to be different, so...... an Autech bar with a symmetrical intake would be enough. As would the TBO bar with a less pronounced full lip (doesn't recess at the mouth). Same goes with any other kit pieces.

Plastic molding is not a financially viable option - one place was happy happy to do it but wanted $25K up front to make the mold - metal molds, plastic injection. On top of that would be materials, labour, etc.

Still waiting to hear back about FRP. Fibreglass is looking like the best option at the moment.

Ideas on tweaks for these rear bars? (I've chosen these for ease of molding)

1)

400x350-2010072900061.jpg

2)

600x400-2008102200443.jpg

3)

aeromasterjp-img600x450-1189240018a31t1rok.jpg

Edited by a31rb25

I prefer the last Autech pic. With the "bubbles" around the number plate section.

I know, all you haters hate them on the front and rear bars, but stfu, I reckon it looks better with them,

As for tweaking them, I dunno...I'll let others decide.

I prefer the last Autech pic. With the "bubbles" around the number plate section.

I know, all you haters hate them on the front and rear bars, but stfu, I reckon it looks better with them,

As for tweaking them, I dunno...I'll let others decide.

+1 , Make the D part beside the number plate slightly shorter (or the number plate hole bigger to accomodate adm numberplates) and make the exhaust cut out wider . AAAaaand if you look at a stock rear bar , they have a groove just under the tail lights , you could add that in?

Combine both those Autech bars.

The S2 is flat at the bottom, the S1 (1st pic) isn't.

I dont like how the S1 flares on the sides as it heads back to the wheel arches though.

Keep it even along the sides, have that cut out in the middle rear, THAT, on a series 2 Autech.

If its even, it'll make the whole car look better when slammed. A bumper that is uneven in edge (ie S1 Autech, Uras, Dianna, etc) looks shitty. More "boxed" shape like S2 Autech. Does that even make sense?

As Toffy said, widder to accomodate Aus plates.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • An update regarding the registration with the DVLA I sent off the paperwork the day after I collected the car from the port, two weeks later it was all returned with a letter explaining they have rejected the application. This was because the cheque was £20 short for the road tax (I used a price list I found online). Nevermind it is what it is, it was sent back to them the following day with a new cheque. Fast forward another 2 weeks or so, I called them for an update to be told it had been rejected. Yesterday (16th September) I received the documents back along with another letter, this time it was because I didn't put an X in one box on the V750 (personalised number plate certificate), which declared that I had the rights to the personalised number plate. Why this wasn't mentioned in the first rejection letter, I don't know, but it could have saved this headache. The documents were sent back today, so fingers crossed third times a charm and it'll FINALLY be registered on the road just in time for the bad weather (woohoo!) To cheer myself up I lowered the front 25mm, was sick of seeing it sit like a monster truck. No idea how much clearance I'll have getting on and off the driveway, I'll worry about that when I can actually drive it
    • You're going to miss not worrying about rust in the strut towers like the Skyline shitboxes out there
    • A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had.  The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress.  The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat)  A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not  
    • GT-R clearly the better choice! The 300 is certainly not insaly fast but has a decent amount of poke. Does a nice little drift around the corners with a decent amount of throttle. It's VERY predictable in a slide too.  Feels so progressive! People probably presume there's a 25 year old driving it based on my behaviour this week! 🤣
    • Yeah Jap import. Fairlady Z then! I'm a bit the same.  They've been on my radar for a fair while but then just impulsively decided to buy one!  Was going to just buy an NA and add turbos to it later but decided to save the f'ing around and just buy the turbo version. 
×
×
  • Create New...