Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so anyway my neo 25 is pretty well spot on in terms of power, response and torque. I did want to change the stock over the top of the motor style manifold for the sake of tidying up the engine bay and so forth. i DONT want to go with a cheap shit copy manifold. I would get a greddy manifold but at around 700 odd for a new one i was thinking why not go with GTR ITB's and plenumn. whats needed to make them fit and would it be a total waste of time and money?

looking at changing the diff back to a 4.1 so will need a tad more midrange torque and power to make up for the ratio change from 4.3. this might be one way of doing it?

fwiw a plazmaman manifold is out the question.. they are HUGE and IMO overpriced.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360698-to-go-itbs-or-not-worth-it-read-on/
Share on other sites

You need an adaptor plate made up to have the ITB/plenum go on i believe.

Not the simplest job, but certainly possible.

Blitz used to make an adaptor... I believe they stopped doing it :(

The adaptor was overpriced too lol, but then it was a one-of-a-kind make

Am looking at going this setup myself, although on R33 RB25, not Neo.

Rather than a Blitz style adaptor I am leaning more toward welding a plate to the standard RB25 runners which the GTR throttle-bodies can then be bolted to. This way original injectors, idle control, etc can all be kept.

Also the injectors are kept exactly where they were designed to be, etc.

RIPS NZ can do the whole job for somewhere around $600 or look at designing/doing it yourself (I am)

so anyway my neo 25 is pretty well spot on in terms of power, response and torque. I did want to change the stock over the top of the motor style manifold for the sake of tidying up the engine bay and so forth. i DONT want to go with a cheap shit copy manifold. I would get a greddy manifold but at around 700 odd for a new one i was thinking why not go with GTR ITB's and plenumn. whats needed to make them fit and would it be a total waste of time and money?

looking at changing the diff back to a 4.1 so will need a tad more midrange torque and power to make up for the ratio change from 4.3. this might be one way of doing it?

fwiw a plazmaman manifold is out the question.. they are HUGE and IMO overpriced.

Ran Rb26 plenum with blitz adaptor kit on my rb25 (non-neo) and recommend it. Its not a easy job and my advice would be to take the engine out as it makes the job 100x easier.

What needs to be done to make it fit:

1: Adaptor Plates

2: Remove Radiator water outlet on Rb26 Plenum and weld on the rb25 plenum radiator water outlet

3: R33 S1 throttle positioning sensors will bolt onto the rb26 plenum

4: GTR throttle cable (gts-t throttle cable is too long, i just loop mine inside the cabin but its easier to just get a gtr cable)

5: Make a bracket to hold the throttle cable

6: There is a big air box on the underside of the gtr plenum

gallery_15274_3064_206110.jpg

What we did was remove the box and made up a pipe section which allow all the vacuum lines to be connected.

This is needed as the std rb25 filter will hit the gtr plenum

7: You will need to use the gtr fuel rail, which means you need to wire in the plugs for the GTR injectors and also wire in the gtr resistor pack for the injectors

I think that is about it, if i remember anything else i post up and if you have any question just ask

Edit: Also the gains, i pick up around 200-300rpm, before the swap i had full boost around 3300rpm after plenum install was getting full boost around 3000-3100rpm.

Will try and find some photos of the conversation

Edited by Kaido_RR

I've been looking at this for a while and all the people I've talked to everyones been happy with the results, no one has gone back or changed to a greddy/style.

At the end of the day it's not a huge gain for the work involved- but it is a gain.

Some guys have used 10mm alloy plate to make up the adapter- I was going to use something alot thicker to create a longer distance between the tb and ports for slightly better low end torque.. it all depends on the clearance to the strut tower too.

I say go for it and post up the results as a pure, before-after.

Cheers

Justin

If your hoping to gain actual transient response within the usable rpm range of that turbo(4000-7000rpm) then it will help. However I wouldn't jeopardize runner length unless you dont mind loosing mid range power (1000-55000rpm) and mid rpm spool rate.

If your hoping to gain actual transient response within the usable rpm range of that turbo(4000-7000rpm) then it will help. However I wouldn't jeopardize runner length unless you dont mind loosing mid range power (1000-55000rpm) and mid rpm spool rate.

i didn't lose anything from doing the swap.

As XRATED mention it is not the easies swap and does cost abit, however i found no negatives to the swap other than the cost/time it takes to do the swap.

Plus it makes the engine bay look so much neater

img4586.jpg

Edited by Kaido_RR

If its only 600NZD currently, you'd be hard pressed to beat locally with time/effort it given how poor their dollar is at the moment :thumbsup:

can do a CAD drawing of the adaptor easy enough.. once this is done i have a machinist who can work off the file. shouldnt cost any where near as much as buying a made kit.. there is however trial and error. I would like to see some pics of plates used to get a rough idea what to expect atm.

thanks for the pics posted so far guys... loads of info here already

i didn't lose anything from doing the swap.

As XRATED mention it is not the easies swap and does cost abit, however i found no negatives to the swap other than the cost/time it takes to do the swap.

Plus it makes the engine bay look so much neater

img4586.jpg

Have you got dyno graphs to prove back to back runs with nothing but the intake manifold change. Talk to some of the RB25 guys that go to the plazman manifold - they all experience some bottom end loss due the runner length halving.

well i did some searching and it seems a member did it all on a neo motor with no adaptor plate... sweet as! looks like its pretty straight forward then.

as per here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/247435-mating-rb26dett-throttle-plenum-on-rb25det-neo-head/page__view__findpost__p__4606691

Have you got dyno graphs to prove back to back runs with nothing but the intake manifold change. Talk to some of the RB25 guys that go to the plazman manifold - they all experience some bottom end loss due the runner length halving.

Roy saw this issue when he changed to Plazman/6boost manifold combo. (check his RB02 build thread for more detailed info)

Which part was to blame - hard to say of course - either way upgrading was a costly exercise for less... :(

plazman maniflolds are HUUUGE thats for sure... they really only suit VL's and their large engine bays. i had the misfortune of working on a 34 with one fitted and you couldnt change the oil filter from the top thats for sure. or the sides for that matter.

Have you got dyno graphs to prove back to back runs with nothing but the intake manifold change. Talk to some of the RB25 guys that go to the plazman manifold - they all experience some bottom end loss due the runner length halving.

Ummm do you mean a Greddy manifold? Plazmaman doesn't touch the runners.

While getting to the oil filter is harder, it aint that big of a deal. The only thing that made mine harder is the extra braided lines teeing into the fuel lines for the nitrous being in the way.

Personally I wouldn't be welding onto the head... Tig is a 'hot' process. There are just so many finely machined clearances to be buggered around with by adding that much heat.

An adapter plate can be made as easily as a slice of alloy plate, the two types of head gaskets and some basic hand tools.

And if it all goes tits up you can put it back to stock.

Cheers

Justin

Have you got dyno graphs to prove back to back runs with nothing but the intake manifold change. Talk to some of the RB25 guys that go to the plazman manifold - they all experience some bottom end loss due the runner length halving.

i will have to check to see if i still have my dyno print outs.

Nothing else was change when i did the plenum swap if i remember right, i think i even ran the same boost on the retune. Interesting that when the retune was done, the whole tune had to be wipe and start again as everything was out with the gtr plenum on.

For me no bottom end loss, the car was more responsive everywhere.

The blitz plate are only 100mm thick maybe less. i had the plate which connects to the head slightly ported to suit the head ports.

The kit is now on a friends car, however it is having turbo issue so has not had a proper retune. Will be interesting to see the result he get as it is running an identical setup to what i had (even has my old hks pro s turbo)

Edit: just for info the photo i posted was with my newer setup which was running a 3037S however the result were not as good as my engine was dieing, very low compression and eating oil

Edited by Kaido_RR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...